Hey, quick question.

I'm running VTA with my 4x as I get a handle on the car. The VTA tires are a bit wide and I'm getting tire rub on the wheelhubs where the Ackerman holes are. It's way too tight a fit. Happens on both the front and rear.

Any suggestions?

Move up to usgt.

As I'm sure you've realized, its rubbing in the front and back because the parts used are the same.

How bad is the rubbing, I run standard TC tires so I have no idea.

The potential fix would be to buy wider hex hubs which serpent makes and are listed for the off road car. You will have a wider stance which appears to be opposite of what normal TC's are going with.

Steve

Bad enough to impede movement of the tires - would probably need to find a good 5mm. It's not really even close right now and would do damage.

I can switch motors with my usgt car and flip classes. Not a big deal, was just curious if there was an easy adjustment

The kit hexes are -.75. I've seen guys using the xray +3mm ones in vita with the old car which had similar tolerances. Yeah racing do a +5mm hex. Try and source those or Maybe you could get creative with a Dremel

For front vta tires I'm going with a 7mm wide hex to stop rub.

Rear 6mms will work.

Serpent Project 4X, manual vertical topdeck
Its uploaded to the website.

Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Vertical topdeck set 4X - Downloads

Serpent 4X New Option Stiffener Front Short Released !
for 401738 Vertical Top Deck .

So how much fun are the through-shocks on this car to deal with? It's the one design area that scares me. I have not enjoyed through-shocks on my pan cars (both Xray and Associated). Can you keep air out of them for a reasonable length of time?

It is one the trickier parts of the chassis. A couple tips help:

1) Get the 70 durometer Tamiya x-rings (not 50), Blue Yokomo o-ring, or the Kyosho orange x-ring work pretty well too. That's my list, best first.
2) Definitely use green slime of some sort, though I recommend pre-soaking the o-rings first.
3) Thicker oil is better, luckily the latest setups (which are certainly the best) use 2500-3k most of the time.
4) When building, get the bottom or one side sealed up, fill and let bubbles raise to the surface. Now put the white shock guide on and make sure it is FULLY seated, then place cap and tighten. Do not over tighten. If the cap didn't screw down very far, there is too much oil in the shock, either way, let the shock sit for a couple minutes and try to tighten the cap down again.

Given that technique, I now go multiple race days without issue.

Ethan

No shock stand recommendations??

Ahh yes, how could I forget. I highly, highly recommend the top of a motor spray can, makes holes with reamer as desired.

That's a great idea!

Are you guys having issue with the Roll shock? I have only noticed small issues with the Heave shocks getting a bit of air in them in my area.

Steve

Yea, just the heave for the most part. The roll moves so little and far less abruptly than the heave. It also depends on how bumpy your track is, also racing mod seems to produce more issues, presumably the shocks are working harder.

Yes, that's what we see here too! Thanks.