Serpent Project 4-X
|
|||
#271
Tire rub
Hey, quick question.
I'm running VTA with my 4x as I get a handle on the car. The VTA tires are a bit wide and I'm getting tire rub on the wheelhubs where the Ackerman holes are. It's way too tight a fit. Happens on both the front and rear.
Any suggestions?
I'm running VTA with my 4x as I get a handle on the car. The VTA tires are a bit wide and I'm getting tire rub on the wheelhubs where the Ackerman holes are. It's way too tight a fit. Happens on both the front and rear.
Any suggestions?
#273
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
How bad is the rubbing, I run standard TC tires so I have no idea.
The potential fix would be to buy wider hex hubs which serpent makes and are listed for the off road car. You will have a wider stance which appears to be opposite of what normal TC's are going with.
Steve
#274
As I'm sure you've realized, its rubbing in the front and back because the parts used are the same.
How bad is the rubbing, I run standard TC tires so I have no idea.
The potential fix would be to buy wider hex hubs which serpent makes and are listed for the off road car. You will have a wider stance which appears to be opposite of what normal TC's are going with.
Steve
How bad is the rubbing, I run standard TC tires so I have no idea.
The potential fix would be to buy wider hex hubs which serpent makes and are listed for the off road car. You will have a wider stance which appears to be opposite of what normal TC's are going with.
Steve
Bad enough to impede movement of the tires - would probably need to find a good 5mm. It's not really even close right now and would do damage.
I can switch motors with my usgt car and flip classes. Not a big deal, was just curious if there was an easy adjustment
#277
Serpent Project 4X, manual vertical topdeck
Its uploaded to the website.
Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Vertical topdeck set 4X - Downloads
Its uploaded to the website.
Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Vertical topdeck set 4X - Downloads
#278
Serpent 4X New Option Stiffener Front Short Released !
for 401738 Vertical Top Deck .
for 401738 Vertical Top Deck .
#279
Tech Elite
So how much fun are the through-shocks on this car to deal with? It's the one design area that scares me. I have not enjoyed through-shocks on my pan cars (both Xray and Associated). Can you keep air out of them for a reasonable length of time?
#280
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
1) Get the 70 durometer Tamiya x-rings (not 50), Blue Yokomo o-ring, or the Kyosho orange x-ring work pretty well too. That's my list, best first.
2) Definitely use green slime of some sort, though I recommend pre-soaking the o-rings first.
3) Thicker oil is better, luckily the latest setups (which are certainly the best) use 2500-3k most of the time.
4) When building, get the bottom or one side sealed up, fill and let bubbles raise to the surface. Now put the white shock guide on and make sure it is FULLY seated, then place cap and tighten. Do not over tighten. If the cap didn't screw down very far, there is too much oil in the shock, either way, let the shock sit for a couple minutes and try to tighten the cap down again.
Given that technique, I now go multiple race days without issue.
Ethan
#281
It is one the trickier parts of the chassis. A couple tips help:
1) Get the 70 durometer Tamiya x-rings (not 50), Blue Yokomo o-ring, or the Kyosho orange x-ring work pretty well too. That's my list, best first.
2) Definitely use green slime of some sort, though I recommend pre-soaking the o-rings first.
3) Thicker oil is better, luckily the latest setups (which are certainly the best) use 2500-3k most of the time.
4) When building, get the bottom or one side sealed up, fill and let bubbles raise to the surface. Now put the white shock guide on and make sure it is FULLY seated, then place cap and tighten. Do not over tighten. If the cap didn't screw down very far, there is too much oil in the shock, either way, let the shock sit for a couple minutes and try to tighten the cap down again.
Given that technique, I now go multiple race days without issue.
Ethan
1) Get the 70 durometer Tamiya x-rings (not 50), Blue Yokomo o-ring, or the Kyosho orange x-ring work pretty well too. That's my list, best first.
2) Definitely use green slime of some sort, though I recommend pre-soaking the o-rings first.
3) Thicker oil is better, luckily the latest setups (which are certainly the best) use 2500-3k most of the time.
4) When building, get the bottom or one side sealed up, fill and let bubbles raise to the surface. Now put the white shock guide on and make sure it is FULLY seated, then place cap and tighten. Do not over tighten. If the cap didn't screw down very far, there is too much oil in the shock, either way, let the shock sit for a couple minutes and try to tighten the cap down again.
Given that technique, I now go multiple race days without issue.
Ethan