Is there an avid bearing kit for the .4 that I'm just not seeing on their site?

Also, is it just me or are the stock bearings somewhat low quality? After two race days I re-built the diffs and when I checked the bearings 3 of the 6 had noticeable resistance in certain areas and were generally loud. Also, on one of the larger wheel bearings, the seal had come off and was all bent up, spinning around the driveshaft.

Also, is there anyone that can speak to the quality of BOTH avid and J&T bearings? Do you have a preference? Is there a 3rd option I should be looking at?

I'm going to do a rebuild before the next race.

I've used Avid for years now, in addition to the kit bearings and occasionally some from ProTek, with similar results. I don't see a huge difference in quality. We abuse bearings in 1/8th racing vehicles.

I experienced the same problem you had with the bearing shield coming off the back of a bearing on my .4 (larger wheel bearing). It was one of the kit bearings with little run time on it.

Just part of high performance anything. Parts wear out. Some fail prematurely. Bearings are a wear item. Keep lots of them on hand and replace often.

Any tricks to getting more steering on low to medium grip tracks? I've tried several things. I used to run Sworkz and I like a car with pretty aggressive steering. With the Tekno, turn in is good, but mid corner and exit is pretty bad. I've messed with rear hub spacing, front shock position out one hole, dropped the inner camber link one. I only run 1.5 neg camber all around. Maybe a little more camber up front might help. I've played a little with ride height and droop. I have only raced the car 3 times. Still trying to get it figured out. Diff oils are 7,5,3. Stock shock oils and springs. Removed the steering limit washer, battery forward, rear hubs forward.

More Steering Mid-to-Exit of the Corner and On-Power:

Thicker oil in Front diff

More caster

Lean front shocks down on tower

Thicker rear swaybar

Stand up rear shocks on tower

Taken from....
THE Guide ? JQRacing

I've used avid, fast eddy, J&T, and Boca. I prefer J&T out of all of them. Sold by a racer, for racers.

On medium grip bumpy dirt I started with 7-7-5 but ended on 7-10-5. On turf I'm running 15-20-10. Still fighting grip roll though...

Thanks, I also tried the rear akerman position. I think its time to change caster. Get out the manual and figure out the pin insert blocks.

Not saying it sways your opinion but I'd like to hear from someone without a sponsorship affiliation with one brand or another.

I was looking for more mid-exit steering on mine too. I built my car with Joe's smooth track setup. Only changes I've made are 1 step softer front spring, and went up to 10-10-(5-3). Rear diff varies depending on how much traction our track has, can vary from dry and slick to almost as much grip as clay.

Joe's smooth track setup,
http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...th%20Track.pdf

thanks, I'll give that a try

Have you messed around with ride height? I run the front slightly lower than the rear and IMO it helps with the transfer of power to the front wheels on cornering.

Run the forward ackermann position for more on power steering.
On the pills, run the single dot up on the A block and the single dot down on the B block for maximum kick-up.

My buddy is looking to get the .4. Anyone have them in stock? Thanks

I've got a .3 with .4 steering. The car steers hard throughout the turn. There's a different driving feel that I really like when ackerman is set to the back. If front adds more on power steering, what does the other two positions do? I feel like I can drive like a madman when it's set to the back. It's like the car is egging me on to corner harder.

If you can find the 48.3 ackerman plate and steering bellcrank, that would solve your problem for sure. Tremendous excessive steering. Steers so hard the rear swings around.