sgtlt, I wish you luck with it. The SC10 4x4 was a nice one for a bit but it can't hang with the heavier shaft driven 4x4 sct's out there. But the concept was nice, too bad AE did not back it fully as they have with other vehicles, as many have said before this could have been something had AE backed it and went with some of the suggestions from the customers, oh well coulda, shoulda woulda.

It's mostly just for me to mess with. We dont run Sct but maybe 2-3 times a year at our (big ) races, but thanks for the encouragement.

Through my own stupidity, I managed to destroy the thrust bearing on the slipper. I can't seem to find one anywhere in stock. Is there any other ones that will work??

Put a rx8 gen 2 with a pro4 4000 kv motor. plenty of power for our small track. Had no problem running with a Tlr scte 3.0 with a big motor in it.

What body is the go to body for Sc 4x4 . Indoor tight smooth small jumps track.

What comes to mind though is the type of track he said he's running on. Those heavy, shaft drive trucks lose their advantage in small,tighter tracks. This type of track is exactly what the truck was built for, and the reason it dominated. Times have changed though and 4wdSC is now run mostly on 1/8 tracks where yes, the size and weight make a huge difference. Most of the new trucks are basically 1/8 buggies with truck body's.... My opinion comes from spending a lot of time running a DESC10, SC104XFT and PROSC 4X back to back and against the latest Tekno/TLR. Tracks have changed and the trucks changed with them. I do wonder though where Associated would be at if they had continued supporting 4x SC.?.?.?.?.

The truck really needed some form of a center diff. It was like night and day using the RC Shox diff. That and
more toe in options.

Does anyone know of an after market aluminium motor plate/ gear box plate for the front? I want to mount the front belt tensioner pulley to something more solid than the stock plastic plate.

Does anyone know where I can source the o-ring that fits on to the screw that goes into the shock cap? My Google-Fu isn't coming up with any real results for the part number of the o-ring. Is there an acceptable alternative?

Been trying to drive mine again (FT version). Got it used ~2,5 years back but have driven it only a few times (not that I've been very active in driving in general prior to this summer).

Problem is, it's very hard to drive and control. It starts "skidding" when accelerating. One driver I talked to online suggested that that happens if the rear wheels are being driven faster than the front wheels, and that a fix is to have a bigger front drive belt pulley. Other than the one that is installed there was one in a spare parts bag, but the spare one is even smaller.

I'm not a competitive driver but I am trying to improve, and while maybe a newer car would be nicer and easier to configure I'm not sure it makes sense financially. For this car I have basically the parts for two new diffs (or at least rebuilds), spare drive belt and cover, spare shocks (some sort of aftermarket shocks are installed, original ones assembled as spares), spare springs and some other things, so I shouldn't be needing to buy too many replacement parts hopefully, from what I hear it's a pretty sturdy car. Buying a new car - or even a newer used car - would require quite a bit of extra cash, especially as I don't think the SC10 4x4 would fetch much in the used market - and definitely not compared to the "usage value." Seems like it should do fine as a practise car if only I can solve the setup problems.

personally one of the best upgrades I did when I had the car was the RC Shox center diff. If you can still get it and plan to run the vehicle, its work it.

I would also get the M2C rear toe block as it helps calm that down.

Doesn't look like the center diff is anywhere to be found. The car should be quite usable as is as long as I can get the setup right.

I was wondering about the whole pulley thing and going over in my head what effect the smaller and bigger pulleys would have - and as I thought, going through the manual again the manual referred to the smaller front pulley as "overdrive". And bam, acceleration fixed.

As I was testing it, noticed I really needed to enable the clicker (only learned what the damn thing even was just yesterday) to keep the car in control when slowing for turns. Also the previous owner has set way too much drag brake I think - part of the reason why the clicker needed to be set on, as the amount of drag brake was causing the scar to spin due to too much front braking (even though I wasn't even actively braking, just neutral throttle). The clicker really seems to live up to its name though. The car was very loud already, but the clicker will make it even noisier. Had to steal a spring out of a "clicking" pen as the original spring was nowhere to be found (and that's why I couldn't enable the clicker while at the track).

Now I just need to find out the model of my ESC so that I can get at those drag brake settings. Another ESC-related thing is that it really needs a fan. It came with one but it didn't stay on, now I need to get start sorted as the ESC got really hot in today's testing.

Also I think I'm going to test the Asso shocks instead of the aftermarket ones to see how that feels. Of course the current ones could be adjusted, but in any case I have a feeling they might be a touch too stiff as is.

At any rate, once I get all this sorted the car should be quite nice to drive!

They still have setups on associated web site. Mayfiels's roar nat's setup from 2012 is working great for me.

Man, people sure weren't kidding when they said this truck is a pain in the butt maintenance-wise. Took me probably a good two hours to detach the gearboxes for diff maintenance. I've never done diff maintenance on any of my cars with no ill effects, though I suppose I should at least on the B5M since it's been driven the most. But for this one since it needs setup tuning anyway and I'm trying to familiarize myself with it more I figured I'd give them a once over since it'll rain for the next couple of days and thus no track time. Regretted it not too far in the process. Leaving the actual cleaning&re-oiling&re-assembly for tomorrow.

On the brighter side blasted through four batteries on the track prior to the maintenance, and the car does handle better. I could actually drive from the driver stand and not have to climb down constantly to rescue the car. The main problem now is... well, with my 2WD cars I often go into corners with neutral throttle at least part of the way instead of braking (to achieve a tighter turn), and it works ok. But with this one I can't, because neutral throttle + turn causes the rear end to spin around. I thought the 4WD was drag braking with the front too much, but the clicker should've fixed that, and actually looking at the manual the Novak ESC probably doesn't even have drag brake. But I noticed the car rolls quite poorly, it decelerates quickly even when not powered on and you push it. So, I guess that's where the braking is coming from, not sure there's anything to help with that? In the meanwhile just gotta keep at least some throttle applied at times.

Oh, and ended up keeping the aftermarket shocks for now, actually because I couldn't get the damn things off. Haha. But loosening the spring preload achieved what I was looking for: less tendency to cause bounce landing the car on its roof when hitting a bump such as the track edge (traction roll hasn't been an issue at all with either preload setting).

Has anyone ever had it happen that when rebuilding the diffs they don't really go smoothly together? So far two out of three outdrives, I've had to leave out the outdrive washer in order to get the rebuilt outdrive assembly turn smoothly, it was way too tight with the washer in place. It's now seemingly snug so I hope there won't be problems with leaks or such, but it does seem odd that they didn't go back together the same way they were.