I have and I used it with 0.50mm head clearance measured with 1.0mm soldering wire compressed between head and piston through glow plug hole. By the way, I´m currently using Sirio GT engines, and they are the same, saharing almost all parts. I think they are both manufactured by same factory. Great engines. Forgot to say I use OS RP6 glow plugs.
Regards
AFM

Hey AFM,
How's thing's?
Thanks for answering my query. Thats good info' to know. I use the same method of measuring the "squish" myself.
At the moment I am running 30% with a clearance of 0.7mm. Do you think that's enough?
The reason why I ask is that I am unable to run the engine with an RP6 or 7?? (Without the glow igniter attached) Even the 5's, although they run well, blow too frequently!
I was wondering if I am not using enough clearance and that maybe the cause?
The engine is still quite new, maybe 15-18 tanks through.
I may try running the 16% fuel I think and see how that goes.
Again. Thanks for replying sir.

Regards
BM

If you're popping plugs, you have to raise the head. Add another 0.2mm

I haven't run with 30% nitro but I requote answer from Thomi who has experience in Brasil running with higer nitro contents:

"My base setup is using 25% nitro content, RP8 plug, 0,65mm clearance. From that on I have been playing around depending on the track, with the max. clearance. I ran 0,75mm with 30% nitro content and RP7 plug. Within these parameters you will find the ideal setting for a given track. Anything outside of these parameters won't be anymore in an ideal setup
window."

According to that I would say you if you´re running 0.7mm, add 0.5mm for 30%.

Regards
AFM

Has anyone modified there Werks gt engine? From stock. I'm new to Gt just was wondering if theres was a noticeable difference in performance.

🏁🏁

What do you think? Modifying an engine will make it worse or give no improvement?

ok then stock it is No need to come off harsh

To modify an engine will always give an improvement, it is just a silly question.

Hey,
Yes. I have a WERKS GT engine and stock they are very good! Getting it modified will improve it in any area you would like it to be improved but it may well come at a cost to another area (Or power range). In stock, they are good and smooth through the rev' band with a very good top end power and very decent high revving.

The thing is. You can mod an engine to have an insanely high power, but the usable rev' range will be so small and outside of that range, it could well be a dog. Also. It may not make very good time either. (Fuel consumption could be very high)
Most reputable engine tuners like to have your engine new if you would like it moded. They may also ask what you want from them..... what kind of improvement.
Also. To state the obvious. It come's at a wallet cost too.
If you are thinking of doing it yourself ....... then try to bear in mind they are already optimized prity well. Cleaning port's, blue printing and port matching, ok. If you do, and I do not know what experience you have had doing this work but I would leave the angle of the ports alone and keep the angle's as you find them. New piston and sleeve are around $150 and a crank about $75 So you if you mess up you can always start a new.
I hope this help's in some way. Good luck sir.

Regards
BM

If I run the engine with 30%, an additional shim is advised?

Yes. Add 0.1 shim. Or better still. Measure the head clearance (the "squish") and shim to get it to around 0.6 to 0.7mm if using 25 or 30% Nitro.
After break in (original plug) use an RP7 plug or even and 8.
Hope that helps.

Regards
BM

Thank you for your reply.

Sorry another question. If I could ask for a better description of measuring head clearance. Are the measurement taken with piston at TDC and just the head button installed with no piston?

Best way I think is to check clearance with Engine fully assembled. Remove the plug. Place piston close to TDC. Then use some soldering wire (Pref around 1mm diameter.)
You need to place the wire, through the plug hole and at the edge of the piston. Then move the piston up and over, past TDC.
This will "Squish" the wire at TDC between the piston and the "squish area" of the head.
Carefully remove the wire and measure where the piston squished it. This is your head clearance.

Shim the head to suit and re check.

Hope I explained that ok.

Regards
BM