how would you run a longer arm on an m05?

. You can use the arms from a TL01 but that will make the car quite a lot wider, basically regular touring car width, approx 185mm. Another option is to use a wider wheel hex, depending on the thickness of the wheel itself you may be able to use a 7mm hex instead of a 5mm. One final option is to fit TG10 long wheel axles and use the 10mm thick hex that comes on one of the TT01 parts trees.

Thats crazy.Surely none of those options are race legal except the wider hexes?
My original question was about offset rims and how that affects handling surely it would be easier to use a wider hex or offset rim to make the rear wider.

If you are racing TCS will they allow you to run the TG10 wheel axles ? They were never intended for M-Chassis cars.

Sorry, I was simply answering the question of what longer arms you could use, not the legality of doing so in a racing context. I'm in the UK and at our club you can run any chassis setup but limited motors. I would expect in TCS you can only use Tamiya parts. Whether you can mix and match from other Tamiya cars I'm sorry I don't know the answer to that. A wider offset wheel or a wider hex on the rear of a FWD makes no practical difference in my own experience. For a laugh I did once run a set of TL01B (Buggy) rear arms on an M03 with F1 rear wheels for maximum width and it looked very odd but still went round a track much the same.

Yeah all good. When the other person suggested a wider arm i was kinda being sarcastic in asking how lol.
Anyhow i was unsure if widening the rear of the car would free that end up a little ?

If anything, widening it will make it more stable on the rear and make the front more nervous. To make the rear rotate more I'd leave it on stock hexes and go up a grade on rear springs or slightly harder rear tyres.

I asked this on the TT-02 thread, but do I need to swap axles when using the Tamiya 9mm aluminum hex hubs? I thought I read somewhere that you need to use the TG10 "long" axles to do so. Thoughts?

I'm running 9mm worth of hexes on one of my minis. You just need to use serrated back wheel nuts instead of nylock ones.

TA03 ball diff, or just add a couple extra of the large washers to the gear diff and use some AW grease. The Yeah Racing diff won't fit without some serious custom fabrication.

Most speed gear sets are a waste of time as they're not durable.

Can someone point me to a Mini spring chart or are they the same as the TC spring rates? All the kit white springs are stiffer than the option ones?

There isn't a single spring chart that I am aware of.

Tamiya tend to colour their springs to show relative hardness, but the actual rates are different from set to set. There can be multiple sets of the same size which makes it even more confusing.

What I would do is choose a set of springs to use, and tune your car using that set alone. I use the "black short" springs which are wound differently to the "white short" or "short" sets, but at least I know which spring is relatively stiffer.

Ok thanks, explains why I really didn't see anything out there. Looking to dust off my S-Spec and run the TCS when it comes to CT. They hold it on the asphalt weather permitting. I know I was running the soft red springs, not sure if that's the way to go. Hopefully get to sort it out better than last time.

For those of you running a fan on your motor, do you have a favorite brand and model?

Thanks!

Tamiya seems to be stiffening the springs a little with each generation, or ot ,any just seem that way as my older springs wear. I've looked at the number of winds between sets and have found the white and black sets are about the same. But, in the most general terms from softest to hardest:

Original long fluoro colour spring set - red, yellow, blue (looser wind, bright colours)
Short touring car set - red, yellow, blue (thicker wore, shorter, duller colours)
White short springs set - red, yellow, blue, white
Black short spring set - red, yellow, blue