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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Xray T4'17

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
R/C Tech Forums Expert How-Tos and Guides
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Old 02-27-2017 | 05:02 PM
  #901  
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On black carpet how much steering angle are you guys typically running on a 50 x 80ft track?
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Old 02-27-2017 | 07:00 PM
  #902  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
No-one should need anymore lock than std. If you think you do you should perhaps start looking at different aspects of setup.
As you add lock you increase scrub which wastes corner speed.

I had the alloy arms on for a while to try and get more lock but got frustrated with the slop. I've since gone back to the std plastic arms which have less slop and lock.

https://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/ne...the T4, Part 1

Read the paragraphs just below the pic of Paul Lemieux

Dang...and Alexander has been doing it all wrong all these years. Think of how good he could be if he would have been doing it the right way.....

EA
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Old 02-27-2017 | 08:59 PM
  #903  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Dang...and Alexander has been doing it all wrong all these years. Think of how good he could be if he would have been doing it the right way.....

EA
Like this Eric?

https://www.facebook.com/alexander.h...59116460783893

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Old 02-28-2017 | 12:04 AM
  #904  
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I wasn't trying to spark an argument or anything, just showing an alternative method to get more steering throw instead of spending $40 for a pair of alloy arm or reaming away the composite arm.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 09:10 AM
  #905  
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Originally Posted by Set
I wasn't trying to spark an argument or anything, just showing an alternative method to get more steering throw instead of spending $40 for a pair of alloy arm or reaming away the composite arm.
Some of the super tight tracks here in the US do require more throw just to make the car feel normal. Some guys (like myself) do not turn the wheel all the way. I like to barely move my hand when racing so I use full throw all the time but don't actually turn the wheel that far. Just a preference. I use a little shim from RSD (reflex racing) that is threaded on the inside so it screws onto the ball stud on the rack and makes it easier to take apart and do maintenance and such. Its a smaller diameter so you get max throw if needed.

EA
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Old 02-28-2017 | 01:38 PM
  #906  
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Originally Posted by Set
I wasn't trying to spark an argument or anything, just showing an alternative method to get more steering throw instead of spending $40 for a pair of alloy arm or reaming away the composite arm.
Absolutely didn't think you were. The only query I have regarding how you've done it, is that it looks like it will affect the bump steer settings. I need to sit down with my car and have a look at it but I have a hunch that the steering links actually sit higher using the floating standoffs.
From looking at the angle of the steering link relative to the wishbone, it looks like you may have increased the bump steer on the car over the kit setup with a 4mm shim on the steering hub. And given that I can see you have 0mm on the hub already, there isn't any room to reduce the bump steer, which is something to consider as well. Especially for high grip carpet where a 1mm bumpsteer shim appears to be the norm to help make the cars easier to drive.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 02:12 PM
  #907  
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Originally Posted by Set
personally I just flip the steering to get more throw



I think too by flipping the rack (which is something I wanted to test) and optimizing the angle of the links, it might allow for the outside wheel to gain some additional steering under compression of the suspension in a corner (like the optional rear suspension can do). The standard setup causes the outside wheel to turn a little less when the suspension is compressed under cornering.

So I think the flipped rack would add more mid corner steering.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 02:43 PM
  #908  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Some of the super tight tracks here in the US do require more throw just to make the car feel normal. Some guys (like myself) do not turn the wheel all the way. I like to barely move my hand when racing so I use full throw all the time but don't actually turn the wheel that far. Just a preference. I use a little shim from RSD (reflex racing) that is threaded on the inside so it screws onto the ball stud on the rack and makes it easier to take apart and do maintenance and such. Its a smaller diameter so you get max throw if needed.

EA
How do you have your radio setup to not move the steering wheel so much?
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Old 02-28-2017 | 02:50 PM
  #909  
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I can't speak for EA, but I have an MT4 and use the curve feature and set it up so that the curve is basically linear but ends at about 80%. This ends up giving me full steering throw at 80% of steering wheel turn. If I feel I want a more aggressive car I will move it down. I rarely ever turn the radio wheel fully when I drive.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 02:56 PM
  #910  
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Ok I have a MT4s too, I'll have to check that out, that would make me a much better drive,cause I crank my wheel a lot.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 03:24 PM
  #911  
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Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. I use the ARC feature.
Attached Thumbnails Xray T4'17-radio1.jpg  
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Old 02-28-2017 | 03:33 PM
  #912  
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perfect, I was just messing with it but didn't see a change in the Curve.
Thanks


BTW any of you guys experience a lot of wear in your outdrives in a short amount of time?My kit is barely a month old and the outdrives are shot.

guess I gotta order steel
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Old 02-28-2017 | 03:40 PM
  #913  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
perfect, I was just messing with it but didn't see a change in the Curve.
Thanks


BTW any of you guys experience a lot of wear in your outdrives in a short amount of time?My kit is barely a month old and the outdrives are shot.

guess I gotta order steel
I personally only run stock and mostly on asphalt, so EA will be the best one to provide input on this. I personally use the A+ delrin outdrives for the spool, and they have been rock solid for over a year and almost zero play.
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Old 02-28-2017 | 03:41 PM
  #914  
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I'm a little different, but by the same extension don't use full lock unless needed whilst driving.

I set the steering on the car to be max, hitting the stops (I have the 0.3mm shim glued to the steering hub similar to Alex). I set the servo drag link the car to be as short as possible, and cant the horn over in neutral, which helps to get equal L-R mechanically before hitting the sub-trim on the radio. Also don't forget to set the toe links equal length.

On the radio, I leave the Dual rate at 100% always, then tune the EPA's and sub-trim tuned to get the max lock, and equal L-R. Then Expo set at -5% and I'm done.

But then I'm a stick user (Sanwa Super ExzesZZ) and mod on asphalt... but I always tried to take on board some advice from Jilles Groskamp. Which was basically always set the car up to have max lock, and steer less... if you need more for driving around tight corners, you already have it
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Old 02-28-2017 | 03:42 PM
  #915  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
perfect, I was just messing with it but didn't see a change in the Curve.
Thanks


BTW any of you guys experience a lot of wear in your outdrives in a short amount of time?My kit is barely a month old and the outdrives are shot.

guess I gotta order steel
Go steel with the orange Xray blades... they are literally bullet proof! Even in mod, the orange blades barely wear and last a ridiculously long time, frig knows what they are made from!
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