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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 02-06-2017 | 08:53 AM
  #2836  
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Originally Posted by werner sline
thank you for the parts number. How come fierce solution is so much cheaper than amain ??
That's a question for amain.

Also check the coupon codes on the site. If you spend over a certain amount, he has a code for free shipping for "most" items. The coupons help a lot.
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Old 02-06-2017 | 11:17 AM
  #2837  
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what parts from the eb48.2 sre still used on the 48.4?
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Old 02-06-2017 | 11:54 AM
  #2838  
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Originally Posted by boudin4evr
what parts from the eb48.2 sre still used on the 48.4?
2->4? Not a whole lot. basically just the hardware. Screws, links, internal diff gears, hinge pins....That's about all I can think of.
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Old 02-06-2017 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ezlight
2->4? Not a whole lot. basically just the hardware. Screws, links, internal diff gears, hinge pins....That's about all I can think of.
The entire diffs should exchange but not the ring and pinion, most of the bearings, the front and rear drive shaft. I'm having a hard time thinking of much else
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Old 02-06-2017 | 02:51 PM
  #2840  
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Originally Posted by suzukipro
Very likely on indoor at least, it just works better for me. To add insult to upgrade injury I just assembled the new C, D hinge pin holders and the rear gearbox won't drop in the recessed chassis area without the C plate hitting the back of the battery tray. The .4 Chassis must also be slightly longer or have things offset compared to the .3 Chassis. My $300.00 upgrade just turned into a $400.00 upgrade due to the need for a new Chassis.

Do Not Upgrade your .3 to a .4, unless of course the kits are out of stock and the parts are readily available...
I stand corrected on the Chassis info above, I assume I'm using an older servo/receiver tray that has the extra material on it possibly even from an EB48. The clearance issue was with the rear screw mount located mount behind the receiver box (not used on .3 or .4 Chassis). The bottom material can be trimmed off leaving enough material for the top receiver cover screw to be secured. . In a nut shell the older chassis should work with the new .4 arms and hinge pins, but the droop screw tabs might wear out pre-maturely due to their narrower width.
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Old 02-06-2017 | 04:25 PM
  #2841  
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Originally Posted by Expose193
Do you have a part number on the shorter turnbuckles ?
Part number for Lunsford turnbuckle is 1450. Those are 4x50mm. Stock is 4x56mm. They can only work as steering links. If you plan on getting some for camber too, you'll need 5mm. Length will depend on setup you chose if it needs longer or shorter links. Stock links are 58mm.
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Old 02-07-2017 | 02:15 AM
  #2842  
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Originally Posted by latentspeed
Part number for Lunsford turnbuckle is 1450. Those are 4x50mm. Stock is 4x56mm. They can only work as steering links. If you plan on getting some for camber too, you'll need 5mm. Length will depend on setup you chose if it needs longer or shorter links. Stock links are 58mm.
Roger on that thanks bud
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Old 02-11-2017 | 08:45 AM
  #2843  
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would swapping out the .4 front and rear diff on the .3 do anything? I know I would have to gear down on the pinion. would there be a performance advantage?
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Old 02-12-2017 | 06:19 AM
  #2844  
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Originally Posted by tfrankito
would swapping out the .4 front and rear diff on the .3 do anything? I know I would have to gear down on the pinion. would there be a performance advantage?
The claim is that it is more efficient with less rotation of the centerline drive train gaining some battery drive time. While this may be true, you can get similar gearing on the .3 car by going up in pinon size.
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Old 02-18-2017 | 05:28 PM
  #2845  
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So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
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Old 02-18-2017 | 06:44 PM
  #2846  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
Yes, they work exactly how you would want them to.
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Old 02-18-2017 | 08:50 PM
  #2847  
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Originally Posted by Slapjack
So this is a tool question but I have the arrowmax shock shaft pliers which have a plastic insert where it grips the shaft and it doesn't grip very well and the shaft just spins. So I want to get the tekno pliers. I'm assuming a lot of you guys have the tekno pliers. Do those actually grip the shaft and make it easy to install shock ends?
great tool!
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Old 02-18-2017 | 09:05 PM
  #2848  
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Yes, they work exactly how you would want them to.
Originally Posted by suzukipro
great tool!
Great. Thanks. Ordering them now. I hate this arrowmax one. I love their hex drivers but this shock shaft plier sucks.
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Old 02-19-2017 | 07:17 AM
  #2849  
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No 2 ready for it's first beating.



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Old 02-20-2017 | 07:45 AM
  #2850  
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Originally Posted by barbwire44
That was me and it was not needed, late night build turned me into a temporary idiot and I put the C block on backwards,,,(countersunk holes to wrong side) lol.
So the .4 wider hinge pin holders will work with the .3 chasis and arms then without trimming the battery box?
I was going to update the rear hinge pin holders and the Ackerman plate and bellcrank. Will that settle the car down and give me about the same handling as the .4? And will those parts fit without other modification or parts? Or will the cvds not be long enough if I make the rear end wider (using all other .3 parts) only changing the hinge holders.
Or do I not even really need to change the rear end? Would just changing the steering plate be fine? The other thing I want to know is do I leave all the steering stops/bump stops as is (.3 stock manual locations) or should I change something on those?
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