FierceRC has had a habit of putting together a package to do that. I've been told it will be alot like the 2-3 upgrades, and you had to do certain stuff in sets. We'll have to wait and see. If Pete looks at it, and it doesn't make sense, it won't be offered.

If your at the point where your going to do a complete tear down for next season, after a season long abuse. Maybe not. Then again, it may still make sense if you haven't heavily abused it (raced 2-3 times a week all summer long, plus some bashing)

The nice thing about the .4, is that yes, it has alot of new redesigned stuff. But close to have of the updates are putting in all the option parts for the .3 into the base .4 package. Along with some pretty smart changes along the way.

Yes, I can't wait to add one.

Okay this kit is killing me... I stripped another screw just trying to back it out of the rear D-block and I have no idea how to get it out. It's ALL the way in. Anyone have any tips? I'm just really bummed out that once again I've got to stop the build due to a bad screw. Using MIP drivers as well.

*facepalm*

EB48.4 New Parts Listing (Compared to original EB48.3)

My only option when I did that was a dremel. If your lucky you can make a deep enough slot. I've also drilled the head out. and one time used the dremel enough that it made the head brittle. That one ended up with some cuts in the block to make it come off, but it was middle of the season, and I still run the block.

A dremel it is lol. I'll just have to cut into the D block a bit to make it deep enough but I'd rather replace the block than stop the build. Wish me luck! thanks man

Get a set of small metric grabits from Sears or a hardware store (I don't believe that is the name brand for Sears, etc., but they should know what you are talking about).

Some people have replaced these with the 2.5mm driver cap head screws (3mm by 40mm). They probably won't fit flush, but should work and be easier to install and remove.

I think the cap head screws would be ideal. I was gonna make on order for Tony's Screws so I might as well get some cap heads. Hopefully the screw extractors work though. It'd be nice to not cut into the D block

Use some grease or chapstick on bolts like that. When they bite that deep into the plastic it helps quite a bit.

Drill it. Grab a bit that is slightly narrower than the screw head. Once you drill down a little ways, the head will pop off. Then you can just pull the d-block off and grab the remaining end of the screw with a pair of pliers to un-screw it. I've had to do that a couple of times on mine.

I'll try that if the dremel or screw extractor doesn't work. My forearms are pretty weak right now from a medical issues so using pliers all the way would kill my arm lol

So what is the theory behind the gearing change? It seems like you will just change the pinion size and end up with the same final drive as the .3. Assuming use of the same motor of course.

new car is coming with cap screws for that area with new hingepin blocks. Glad to see tekno updated that. I'll probably take out the long flat heads here and just put the caps in for my SCT410.3 as even though mine haven't stripped, just feels like a matter of time. Probably why the last car I got in had a bunch of extras for those screws.

going to a taller internal gear ratio should make the power delivery smoother to the ground. This change should allow for less wheel spin when the grip levels aren't high. Keep in mind that historically the NB and EB share the same drive train, so this will be magnified with a Nitro Motor, assuming that carries over. ()

The standard 18-19 gearing for a 1900KV motor will shift to the 16-17 range. Remember as always, run a few min under race conditions and then temp your motor. Don't run 10 min and discover it's at 200 degrees. Do 3-4, temp it. Then let it cool and try 6-8. Extended it again to 8-10. Remember to let it cool in between runs and always simulate race conditions (charged pack, drive like you would race, not bash, etc.)

I haven't gotten a .4 yet, but everything everyone has told me is very positive.

That makes 2 of us. Have to sell a few things to grab one. (NB48.3 will be going buh bye)

So I just wound up cutting off the d-block to save me some cash since I already had an aluminum replacement on the way. I was just hoping I could save it until I had a proper breakage.