The gears need to be shimmed properly for gear lash. I've raced this chassis indoor carpet and have hit hard rails with it without fully destroying the gears. I run one at the Tamiya track a few times a year and have broken the tip of a tooth on either gear, but have never fully stripped a set. It's just shimming to minimize gear lash. I replace the rear gear sets more often on my cars it seems.

This is probably the hundredth time being asked but I'm new to tamiya, just picked up a tb04r and waiting for its arrival. I plan on running it in vta 25.5 class, can someone tell me or have a gearing chart to get a 4.0 fdr? Pinion and spur size. Also spare parts that are good to have on hand? Thank you for the wisdom in advance

The drive ratio of the chassis is 2.5:1. In VTA, I ran a 3.46:1 FDR (larger, asphalt layout). To get that I ran a 72T spur and a 52T pinion (64P).

(72/52)*2.5 = 3.46 FDR

To get your 4.0:1 FDR with a 72T spur:

(72/4.0)*2.5 = 45T pinion

With a 25.5 motor im not really sure what you are in danger of breaking. With 17.5 Blinky, I stripped my front spool twice and am moving back to a differential with 1M or 2.5M cst weight diff oil. I lost a number of screws. I broke the chassis once. The pilot shaft cups are worn. You may want to get extra gear box parts because I stripped the damper tower mounts from hitting things.

Thank you sir 👍🏿

C-Hubs are a must for spares.

The TB-04R comes with Part #54580 - "Carbon Reinforced Hub Carriers". These seem to break easily if your track uses boards and you come in contact with them often.

Most folks here seem to recommend Part #51293 - "TA05-IFS F Parts (Hub Carrier, 4 degrees)" as a much more durable alternative. To use these you also need a 3x0.7mm shim (Part #19805645) to sandwich in-between the top of the front upright and the top flange tube in the c-hub.

The TA05 hubs are not as rigid as the stock reinforced hubs, but I don't notice any difference in steering.

Thank you sir ,

Thank you too sir, again thanks to you all for the wisdom👍🏿

if you want c-hubs that don't break you can get the 6 degree c hubs from GPM racing on asiatees.com.

http://www.asiatees.com/display?-TB0...id=82566&pid=1

Although I would stay away from the rear knuckles, they don't seem to be threaded properly. The swing shafts they sell are decently priced, work very well... but aren't quite as good as the double-cardan joints from Tamiya.

thanks nubs

Guys, how this plastic geared car lives with modified engines? Do gears strip often?
How good is driveline sealed if I would like to use it for rally?

Not good for rally. You would need to create a shroud to protect the spur and pinion. Wouldn't suggest running mod in this thing.

Hey guys does anyone remember the smallest spur + biggest pinion combo that can fit with a dremeled motor mount? Thanks.

I think a 53/72 64dp combo was the way to go.

Is there any way to get down to a 3.0 final drive in TB-04 that is TCS legal?? Lowest 64P option can come up with is 72/53 for a 3.39 final drive (53T is the max pinion that will fit without hitting motor screw holes, and I don't see any available 64P spurs that fit lower than 72T). Guys running 21.5 fixed timing motors are gearing 2.9 to 3.2 final ratio at our track, which may exclude any TB-04 entry. Anyone know the lowest final drive ratio obtainable with 48P gears and TCS legal?