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Tamiya TB04 Pro

Old 05-12-2016, 10:07 PM
  #1246  
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It's other way, small bevel has to be from evo4 (it has 17T in contrast to 16T in evo5 and 6). Tamiya PN 51110 for diff version, 51109 for spool

I'm not sure why you need 39T gear from Evo5, as evo4 has 39T ring gear. Maybe to fit gear diff and spool as evo4 are hard to find
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:58 AM
  #1247  
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Originally Posted by Papi View Post
It's other way, small bevel has to be from evo4 (it has 17T in contrast to 16T in evo5 and 6). Tamiya PN 51110 for diff version, 51109 for spool

I'm not sure why you need 39T gear from Evo5, as evo4 has 39T ring gear. Maybe to fit gear diff and spool as evo4 are hard to find
Yeah they mentioned something about sanding the gears. But thank you for the info.
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Old 05-16-2016, 12:39 PM
  #1248  
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I believe my front spool just stripped, this is the second time it's happened. Anyone know why this is happening? I generally run my car in a parking lot with very good grip. It's a wide open parking lot which allows me to get up to around 30 MPH easily.
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:43 PM
  #1249  
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
I believe my front spool just stripped, this is the second time it's happened. Anyone know why this is happening? I generally run my car in a parking lot with very good grip. It's a wide open parking lot which allows me to get up to around 30 MPH easily.
Very little give in the driveline of a shaft car. Since there is no slipper either a metal part or plastic part has to give.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:34 PM
  #1250  
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
I believe my front spool just stripped, this is the second time it's happened. Anyone know why this is happening? I generally run my car in a parking lot with very good grip. It's a wide open parking lot which allows me to get up to around 30 MPH easily.
The gears need to be shimmed properly for gear lash. I've raced this chassis indoor carpet and have hit hard rails with it without fully destroying the gears. I run one at the Tamiya track a few times a year and have broken the tip of a tooth on either gear, but have never fully stripped a set. It's just shimming to minimize gear lash. I replace the rear gear sets more often on my cars it seems.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:29 AM
  #1251  
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This is probably the hundredth time being asked but I'm new to tamiya, just picked up a tb04r and waiting for its arrival. I plan on running it in vta 25.5 class, can someone tell me or have a gearing chart to get a 4.0 fdr? Pinion and spur size. Also spare parts that are good to have on hand? Thank you for the wisdom in advance
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Old 05-25-2016, 10:38 AM
  #1252  
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Originally Posted by phq2 View Post
This is probably the hundredth time being asked but I'm new to tamiya, just picked up a tb04r and waiting for its arrival. I plan on running it in vta 25.5 class, can someone tell me or have a gearing chart to get a 4.0 fdr? Pinion and spur size. Also spare parts that are good to have on hand? Thank you for the wisdom in advance
The drive ratio of the chassis is 2.5:1. In VTA, I ran a 3.46:1 FDR (larger, asphalt layout). To get that I ran a 72T spur and a 52T pinion (64P).

(72/52)*2.5 = 3.46 FDR

To get your 4.0:1 FDR with a 72T spur:

(72/4.0)*2.5 = 45T pinion
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:39 PM
  #1253  
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Originally Posted by phq2 View Post
This is probably the hundredth time being asked but I'm new to tamiya, just picked up a tb04r and waiting for its arrival. I plan on running it in vta 25.5 class, can someone tell me or have a gearing chart to get a 4.0 fdr? Pinion and spur size. Also spare parts that are good to have on hand? Thank you for the wisdom in advance
With a 25.5 motor im not really sure what you are in danger of breaking. With 17.5 Blinky, I stripped my front spool twice and am moving back to a differential with 1M or 2.5M cst weight diff oil. I lost a number of screws. I broke the chassis once. The pilot shaft cups are worn. You may want to get extra gear box parts because I stripped the damper tower mounts from hitting things.
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:01 PM
  #1254  
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
With a 25.5 motor im not really sure what you are in danger of breaking. With 17.5 Blinky, I stripped my front spool twice and am moving back to a differential with 1M or 2.5M cst weight diff oil. I lost a number of screws. I broke the chassis once. The pilot shaft cups are worn. You may want to get extra gear box parts because I stripped the damper tower mounts from hitting things.
Thank you sir 👍🏿
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:35 PM
  #1255  
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Originally Posted by phq2 View Post
This is probably the hundredth time being asked but I'm new to tamiya, just picked up a tb04r and waiting for its arrival. I plan on running it in vta 25.5 class, can someone tell me or have a gearing chart to get a 4.0 fdr? Pinion and spur size. Also spare parts that are good to have on hand? Thank you for the wisdom in advance
C-Hubs are a must for spares.

The TB-04R comes with Part #54580 - "Carbon Reinforced Hub Carriers". These seem to break easily if your track uses boards and you come in contact with them often.

Most folks here seem to recommend Part #51293 - "TA05-IFS F Parts (Hub Carrier, 4 degrees)" as a much more durable alternative. To use these you also need a 3x0.7mm shim (Part #19805645) to sandwich in-between the top of the front upright and the top flange tube in the c-hub.

The TA05 hubs are not as rigid as the stock reinforced hubs, but I don't notice any difference in steering.
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:11 AM
  #1256  
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
The drive ratio of the chassis is 2.5:1. In VTA, I ran a 3.46:1 FDR (larger, asphalt layout). To get that I ran a 72T spur and a 52T pinion (64P).

(72/52)*2.5 = 3.46 FDR

To get your 4.0:1 FDR with a 72T spur:

(72/4.0)*2.5 = 45T pinion
Thank you sir ,
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Old 05-26-2016, 04:14 AM
  #1257  
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Originally Posted by B. Santos View Post
C-Hubs are a must for spares.

The TB-04R comes with Part #54580 - "Carbon Reinforced Hub Carriers". These seem to break easily if your track uses boards and you come in contact with them often.

Most folks here seem to recommend Part #51293 - "TA05-IFS F Parts (Hub Carrier, 4 degrees)" as a much more durable alternative. To use these you also need a 3x0.7mm shim (Part #19805645) to sandwich in-between the top of the front upright and the top flange tube in the c-hub.

The TA05 hubs are not as rigid as the stock reinforced hubs, but I don't notice any difference in steering.
Thank you too sir, again thanks to you all for the wisdom👍🏿
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Old 05-26-2016, 03:29 PM
  #1258  
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if you want c-hubs that don't break you can get the 6 degree c hubs from GPM racing on asiatees.com.

http://www.asiatees.com/display?-TB0...id=82566&pid=1

Although I would stay away from the rear knuckles, they don't seem to be threaded properly. The swing shafts they sell are decently priced, work very well... but aren't quite as good as the double-cardan joints from Tamiya.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:51 PM
  #1259  
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thanks nubs
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Old 01-29-2017, 12:29 AM
  #1260  
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Guys, how this plastic geared car lives with modified engines? Do gears strip often?
How good is driveline sealed if I would like to use it for rally?
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