Tamiya TB04 Pro
#1231
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
#1232
Tech Regular
Does anybody know, how to achieve mild "countersteer" on TB chassis? By mild, I mean around 1:1,15 to 1:1,25 front-rear ratio. I found that eagle racing and others made kits for TB-03 or Yokomo, but can't find where to buy these items
#1234
Tech Regular
I was thinking about that, but TB-03 has internal ratio 2.437 (39/16), TB-04 has 2.5 (40/16), which gives me F-R ratio 1.03, if I'm counting it right.. I would like to have atleast 1.1
edit: evo IV has 2,29 (17/39), which gets me to 1,09, but small bevel has different mounting to shaft. I know that EVO4 can be fitted with EVO6 gears but will it work other way round?
edit: evo IV has 2,29 (17/39), which gets me to 1,09, but small bevel has different mounting to shaft. I know that EVO4 can be fitted with EVO6 gears but will it work other way round?
Last edited by Papi; 05-09-2016 at 01:36 PM.
#1236
Tech Rookie
What are the essential upgrades/hopups for the TB04R in your opinion(s)?
Already thinking about the Exotec Carbon chassis...
Already thinking about the Exotec Carbon chassis...
#1237
Tech Regular
I need opposite, fit TB-Evo4 gears on TB04 shaft. I think that Evo4 shafts are unobtainable (and who knows, if they can be fitted to 04 gearbox) today, but gears are possible to find
#1238
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
I just got a NIB tb-04 laferrari and I am curios if I should upgrade anything on it. I see some differences with the PRO, like front shocks and stuff but overall do I need to upgrade anything or should it be ok out of the box?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
also what oil do you guys run in the rear and front diffs? mainly for outdoor.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
also what oil do you guys run in the rear and front diffs? mainly for outdoor.
#1239
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I just got a NIB tb-04 laferrari and I am curios if I should upgrade anything on it. I see some differences with the PRO, like front shocks and stuff but overall do I need to upgrade anything or should it be ok out of the box?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
also what oil do you guys run in the rear and front diffs? mainly for outdoor.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
also what oil do you guys run in the rear and front diffs? mainly for outdoor.
Also when you say mostly outdoors if you mean Street racing and parking lot bashing I suggest you get some pantyhose and create a shroud to protect the pinion and sour gears.
#1241
Any of the TB04 variants are great cars, the thing about it, is setting the gear mesh. But back on point. If your going to be competitive with it, later on down the road. Your going to want to the EXO6 conversion for it. I have the TB04R. Its a nice kit, but I have delayed my racing just because the thing is so heavy. The local club that I would race at, alot of the guys use that pink belt driven Sakura XTI sport. I hate that thing and wouldnt ever own anything thats on four wheels that has pink on it
The few things you need to make it a little better. First thing I did, go to the local mom and pop hardware store and replace every phillips screw on it, metric buttonheads and countersunk screws. It will make it much easier to wrench on it. Second, dont depend on the plastic kit supplied shims, buy a variety pack that Yeah Racing makes. Upgrade your dogbones, to double cardan joints in the front. Spec R is great just as good if not better then Tamiya ones. Then upgrade to universals in the rear. Purchase a set of aluminum wheel hubs so you can transfer the brushless power down. Move to the toe in and toe out blocks. Yeah Racing makes them and their fairly cheap. But remember youll four of them, to your desire setting. To me shocks arent really nessecary but if you want to get it racing. Get them. You wont really need a spool up front I think unless your going to race.
Thats my long story 2 cents on what you need or should get.
The few things you need to make it a little better. First thing I did, go to the local mom and pop hardware store and replace every phillips screw on it, metric buttonheads and countersunk screws. It will make it much easier to wrench on it. Second, dont depend on the plastic kit supplied shims, buy a variety pack that Yeah Racing makes. Upgrade your dogbones, to double cardan joints in the front. Spec R is great just as good if not better then Tamiya ones. Then upgrade to universals in the rear. Purchase a set of aluminum wheel hubs so you can transfer the brushless power down. Move to the toe in and toe out blocks. Yeah Racing makes them and their fairly cheap. But remember youll four of them, to your desire setting. To me shocks arent really nessecary but if you want to get it racing. Get them. You wont really need a spool up front I think unless your going to race.
Thats my long story 2 cents on what you need or should get.
#1242
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
If you want to just make it fast as hell, the first think you will need to do is get the upgraded aluminum motor mount. The stock mount prevents you from mounting a large Pinion Gear. Once you get the new motor mount you will want to get the following gears:
76-teeth 64-pitch spur gear
52-teeth 64-Pitch
This will give you a FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of (76/52)*2.5 = 3.65
This will make your car have a significantly higher top speed but reduce the acceleration.
Next you will want to upgrade the transmission to be able to handle the more aggressive gear ratio you just upgraded to. This involve upgrading the following items
Metal Differential Gears and Cross Bars
Aluminum Transmission shaft set
Aluminum Pilot Shaft set
Double Cardan Joint Shaft (front and rear)
Aluminum Cup Joints (front and rear)
These upgrades will basically prevent your car from eating itself up. After that you can work on upgrading handling characteristics:
Wheel Hex Drive Adaptors
Front Direct Coupling
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Front Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Rear Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced C-Hubs
Shims/ thin washers to remove dead space between wheels and Hex adapters
Aluminum Steering Assembly
Aluminum Steering and Pushrods
Aluminum Damper Stay Mount
Carbon Damper Stays (Front / Rear)
TRF Short Dampers
Carbon Reinforced Lower Deck
Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Gear Boxes)
TA06 Stabilizer Set
Aluminum Suspension Mounts (depends on driving preferences)
The final upgrade
TB04 to Exotek Exo-6 Conversion kit(s)
That being said, some people think the exo 6 conversion should come first.
#1243
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Any of the TB04 variants are great cars, the thing about it, is setting the gear mesh. But back on point. If your going to be competitive with it, later on down the road. Your going to want to the EXO6 conversion for it. I have the TB04R. Its a nice kit, but I have delayed my racing just because the thing is so heavy. The local club that I would race at, alot of the guys use that pink belt driven Sakura XTI sport. I hate that thing and wouldnt ever own anything thats on four wheels that has pink on it
The few things you need to make it a little better. First thing I did, go to the local mom and pop hardware store and replace every phillips screw on it, metric buttonheads and countersunk screws. It will make it much easier to wrench on it. Second, dont depend on the plastic kit supplied shims, buy a variety pack that Yeah Racing makes. Upgrade your dogbones, to double cardan joints in the front. Spec R is great just as good if not better then Tamiya ones. Then upgrade to universals in the rear. Purchase a set of aluminum wheel hubs so you can transfer the brushless power down. Move to the toe in and toe out blocks. Yeah Racing makes them and their fairly cheap. But remember youll four of them, to your desire setting. To me shocks arent really nessecary but if you want to get it racing. Get them. You wont really need a spool up front I think unless your going to race.
Thats my long story 2 cents on what you need or should get.
The few things you need to make it a little better. First thing I did, go to the local mom and pop hardware store and replace every phillips screw on it, metric buttonheads and countersunk screws. It will make it much easier to wrench on it. Second, dont depend on the plastic kit supplied shims, buy a variety pack that Yeah Racing makes. Upgrade your dogbones, to double cardan joints in the front. Spec R is great just as good if not better then Tamiya ones. Then upgrade to universals in the rear. Purchase a set of aluminum wheel hubs so you can transfer the brushless power down. Move to the toe in and toe out blocks. Yeah Racing makes them and their fairly cheap. But remember youll four of them, to your desire setting. To me shocks arent really nessecary but if you want to get it racing. Get them. You wont really need a spool up front I think unless your going to race.
Thats my long story 2 cents on what you need or should get.
#1244
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
There are a ton of things that can be upgraded on the TB04 standard build. Depending on what you want to do with it will determine which route you go first.
If you want to just make it fast as hell, the first think you will need to do is get the upgraded aluminum motor mount. The stock mount prevents you from mounting a large Pinion Gear. Once you get the new motor mount you will want to get the following gears:
76-teeth 64-pitch spur gear
52-teeth 64-Pitch
This will give you a FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of (76/52)*2.5 = 3.65
This will make your car have a significantly higher top speed but reduce the acceleration.
Next you will want to upgrade the transmission to be able to handle the more aggressive gear ratio you just upgraded to. This involve upgrading the following items
Metal Differential Gears and Cross Bars
Aluminum Transmission shaft set
Aluminum Pilot Shaft set
Double Cardan Joint Shaft (front and rear)
Aluminum Cup Joints (front and rear)
These upgrades will basically prevent your car from eating itself up. After that you can work on upgrading handling characteristics:
Wheel Hex Drive Adaptors
Front Direct Coupling
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Front Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Rear Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced C-Hubs
Shims/ thin washers to remove dead space between wheels and Hex adapters
Aluminum Steering Assembly
Aluminum Steering and Pushrods
Aluminum Damper Stay Mount
Carbon Damper Stays (Front / Rear)
TRF Short Dampers
Carbon Reinforced Lower Deck
Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Gear Boxes)
TA06 Stabilizer Set
Aluminum Suspension Mounts (depends on driving preferences)
The final upgrade
TB04 to Exotek Exo-6 Conversion kit(s)
That being said, some people think the exo 6 conversion should come first.
If you want to just make it fast as hell, the first think you will need to do is get the upgraded aluminum motor mount. The stock mount prevents you from mounting a large Pinion Gear. Once you get the new motor mount you will want to get the following gears:
76-teeth 64-pitch spur gear
52-teeth 64-Pitch
This will give you a FDR (Final Drive Ratio) of (76/52)*2.5 = 3.65
This will make your car have a significantly higher top speed but reduce the acceleration.
Next you will want to upgrade the transmission to be able to handle the more aggressive gear ratio you just upgraded to. This involve upgrading the following items
Metal Differential Gears and Cross Bars
Aluminum Transmission shaft set
Aluminum Pilot Shaft set
Double Cardan Joint Shaft (front and rear)
Aluminum Cup Joints (front and rear)
These upgrades will basically prevent your car from eating itself up. After that you can work on upgrading handling characteristics:
Wheel Hex Drive Adaptors
Front Direct Coupling
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Front Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced Rear Knuckles (Uprights)
Aluminum or Carbon Reinforced C-Hubs
Shims/ thin washers to remove dead space between wheels and Hex adapters
Aluminum Steering Assembly
Aluminum Steering and Pushrods
Aluminum Damper Stay Mount
Carbon Damper Stays (Front / Rear)
TRF Short Dampers
Carbon Reinforced Lower Deck
Carbon Reinforced A Parts (Gear Boxes)
TA06 Stabilizer Set
Aluminum Suspension Mounts (depends on driving preferences)
The final upgrade
TB04 to Exotek Exo-6 Conversion kit(s)
That being said, some people think the exo 6 conversion should come first.
#1245
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I was reading through some of the posts from 2014 and ran across a modification that people have made to change the internal ratio from 2.5 to 2.29. Unfortunately I don't quite understand how to make the conversion. First they mention getting a 39T ring gear from the Evo 4 and also using the Evo 5 small gears.
My question is, does anyone know the parts numbers to buy? Unfortunately none of the parts I see on the Tamiya website actually state 39T ring gear nor are any referred to as small gears.
My question is, does anyone know the parts numbers to buy? Unfortunately none of the parts I see on the Tamiya website actually state 39T ring gear nor are any referred to as small gears.