Either that or maybe just limit the current from the ESC. But then you lose a little torque if I'm not mistaken.

It will be fine, that's what dual rate is for. I do it all the time in other classes. Limiting the current (or punch control) will only slow down the acceleration, unless you really limit the punch it won't effect the top end much.

at some point to be honest there is only so much limiting etc you can do before you start noticing odd things with the motor performance. Considering the new gearing, heck I would almost consider a 1700kv motor on 4S as on some of the tracks here I was running a 16T pinion with a 1900Kv motor on 4S on the EB48 I had.

I wonder how that will translate over to a future truggy as from the ET48 days I was perferring a 1700Kv truggy motor for the available gearing range.

Looks like the vehicle is back in at tower hobbies!

My review.

Built this car last month. Should have come with washers for several places. Gearboxes had a bit of play between the ring and pinion and needed an extra washer. No matter how hard I squeezed those two together there was still play. Front and rear arms needed some too. Otherwise the car will be too aggressive. Axles also.

Center diff had internal gears not freely turning when screwed tight. Loosened it up a slight bit and the diffs were free, but then leaked. Needed to get extra diff seals to fix that.

With the outdoor setup, the front camber links had to be tight. I can't get more then -1 otherwise the turnbuckles dig too deep into rod ends and prevent it from moving freely. Rear turnbuckles have the opposite problem as if they will fall out of the rod ends if I crash.

Steering is so responsive I had to turn down the servo to 6.0v. Decreased radio's steering response too. Think I'll go back to 5 5 5 on diffs as it had a more predictable rotation then 7 7 5. Overall I like how it handles. Good car. Just wish the plastic gearboxes and hubs were made with greater precision or came with washers, and proper length turnbuckles.

Surely this has been covered before but I am not able to find it. When switching to the HRC rear hubs what adjustments need to be made to the rear camber links? I know there is not a straight forward answer for this but I am building the kit with the stock setup to begin with but I want to use the HRC hubs I have on hand.

Follow stock setup, and you'll be fine. I didn't make any other adjustments besides the hubs.

Are the eb48.3 universals compatible with the.4 steering knuckles and rear hubs?

No, the .4 components need to be run with the .4 universal's or the yet to be released .4 cva's. They are totally different and not interchangeable.

Could they work with the EB48.1/2 spindles/hubs if the right bearings were used?

Are you asking if the .3 uni's work in the .1 stuff or if the .4 works in the .1 stuff? Either way doesn't work. The .4 bone lengths are different and the stub axle lengths and bearing spacing are completely different as well.

I was asking if .4 universals might work in the gen 1&2 cars, but you've answered that question.

I'd really like to try universals in my .2. and though I remenered or read that another manufacturers universals (Kyosho?) worked in the Tekno's with some modification before the .3 came out.

No setup adjustments needed. Check your camber and ride height tho.

I'm thinking you would have to get the .3 spindles, .3 c-hubs, .3 rear hubs and the .3 universals to get this to work. I could be wrong, but that's what I'm thinking.

Definitely the .3 rear hubs and C-hubs and 4 more bearings (same size as outer bearings). The Tekno unis are great but the Associated RC8.3B unis fit and cost less. Also, Kyosho unis fit, but you have to use Kyosho hexes with them 'cause the pin is smaller.

Does anyone know if the .3 hubs fit the OG .1 arms fine? the ones with the 2 different inner/outer pivot locations?
I know this was what Eric was worried about not working on his setup.