What mod are you guys referring to that we have to cut parts ?

The steering camber links have to be cut for the new steering system.

Where does it say that ?

what parts are needed to upgrade to a .3?

Where does it state that in the new setup guide ?

You got 4th in the amain, you didn't do that bad. My truck was so bad that I didn't even start the main and I just went home. lol Plus, my body was toast!

I would rather not cut anything. Is there not a steering buckle that we can just purchase?

You could do lunsfords and I think associateds 50mm turnbuckles could work at least based on length. I am assuming the TKR5550 now I look into it more may not work because the ends are thicker instead of 4mm needed.

Right, TKR5550 has a 5mm thread instead of 4mm needed for the steering links.

Like Cain said you can purchase some 50mm links with 4mm thread as an alternative. I didn't want to cut mine either. Took me over two weeks to decide to do it. It went smoother than anticipated using a dremel cutoff wheel. Either way, new link or cutting the existing link, try to make sure you keep the same thread pattern on the plastic so you are not cross-threading it.

Hey guys, I've been stripping servo horns out lately and have determined my servo saver was too tight. I've loosened it up a bit and bought the Tekno Aluminum servo horn (TKR5253B). I'm confused because it's a clamping horn but didn't come with the pinch bolt to actually clamp it. The smaller Tekno clamping horns all come with the pinch bolt so I'm a bit stumped as to what to do with it? Thanks!

I don't believe it does, but the current link is too long to set the proper front toe. It will break thru the steering link plastic ends as you try to get 0 or 1 deg toe out.

So it didn't come with any screw at all? The clamping horns now use an M3 screw so any M3x8mm (I think it's 8mm, maybe 10mm) button head or cap head screw will work.

With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.

I should've specified, sorry. It came with the M3 bolt to tighten the horn to the servo, but it didn't come with the pinch bolt that serves to "clamp" the horn from the back.

Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!

It only comes with the pinch bolt, not the bolt to tighten it to the servo.
Don't worry about posting here, glad to help, but I would still tighten your servo saver back up .

Ok, so what parts (tekno part numbers ) do I need to adjust the toe to 0 ? The original set up sheet has the front toe at .5
There that much off a difference in the .5 to the new recommended 0 , that we have to cut something ?
Someone please explain this to me like I'm a six year old , cause I don't understand.

And what method do you guys use to measure toe?