128LikesXray T4'17
12-07-2016 | 06:34 AM
#616
are you using any sort of traction compound (sauce, SXT, carpet gripper, etc.)? If not, that could be a big part of why you are having such difficulty turning, as you car is lacking grip.
And if your track is carpet - do touring cars there run foam tires as opposed to rubber? When it comes to touring cars, rubber tires are most common for carpet racing, while foam tires are generally used on asphalt, and even then, foam is usually used with nitro touring - not electric. At the carpet tracks I go to, the only cars that run foam tires are pan cars (2WD). Everything else runs rubber tires.
xray springs are not color coded, but instead have the actual rate etched into the top of the spring. You may need to remove the spring from the shock to be able to see the number listed.
If the chassis is rubbing, you likely have your ride height set too low.
It may be annoying and time consuming, but I would highly recommend you tear down the entire chassis, make sure the chassis itself isn't bent (which is possible), and rebuild the car from the ground up using the factory set up sheet as a guide.
from there, reset your ESC and Radio to stock specs (NO drake brake), and set up your radio for the car. From there, you can adjust your steering rate and brake from the transmitter, which will further help you dial the car in to your liking.
Post some pictures if you can, just so we have a better idea of the cars current condition / setup.
Its also worth mentioning that touring car racing is DRASTICALLY different from off-road racing, and some wheel time might be in order to help you get used to the new type of racing.
And if your track is carpet - do touring cars there run foam tires as opposed to rubber? When it comes to touring cars, rubber tires are most common for carpet racing, while foam tires are generally used on asphalt, and even then, foam is usually used with nitro touring - not electric. At the carpet tracks I go to, the only cars that run foam tires are pan cars (2WD). Everything else runs rubber tires.
xray springs are not color coded, but instead have the actual rate etched into the top of the spring. You may need to remove the spring from the shock to be able to see the number listed.
If the chassis is rubbing, you likely have your ride height set too low.
It may be annoying and time consuming, but I would highly recommend you tear down the entire chassis, make sure the chassis itself isn't bent (which is possible), and rebuild the car from the ground up using the factory set up sheet as a guide.
from there, reset your ESC and Radio to stock specs (NO drake brake), and set up your radio for the car. From there, you can adjust your steering rate and brake from the transmitter, which will further help you dial the car in to your liking.
Post some pictures if you can, just so we have a better idea of the cars current condition / setup.
Its also worth mentioning that touring car racing is DRASTICALLY different from off-road racing, and some wheel time might be in order to help you get used to the new type of racing.
Last edited by Slapjack; 12-07-2016 at 07:09 AM.
12-07-2016 | 10:44 AM
#619
I'd agree, start with making sure the caster blocks are installed correctly. You also have 1mm for bumpsteer, I'd look at increasing this to 2 or 3mm to increase leverage from the linkage to the knuckle.
12-07-2016 | 10:50 AM
#620
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 935
From: dark side of the moon
Xray machining is pretty "clean" I don't imagine they would have left any swarf or ridging from drilling, but who knows?
In the past each hole would have been drilled and chamfered thus avoiding the need to do this yourself. This was standard on every part and left perfectly flat surfaces.
In the past each hole would have been drilled and chamfered thus avoiding the need to do this yourself. This was standard on every part and left perfectly flat surfaces.
I maybe a Z main racer but I'm an anal builder even with a XRay.
12-07-2016 | 01:22 PM
#621
It is a good possibility. I will check that. It looks like 4° is what the manual is showing but I think there is the 0° hard installed. All plastics are hard by the way. Should I be running the 4°?
12-07-2016 | 03:11 PM
#623
What about springs and shock oil? Where should I start with that? If I remember right I don't think the manual tells you which oil to use does it?
12-08-2016 | 07:58 PM
#626
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 468
From: Seattle
here are some pics of the car settings. It sounds like I need to make the car stiffer to get more steering? So should I just start adding some of the option parts that make the car stiffer? carbon steering brace, one piece rear/front hinge pin holder, add the 2nd screw/nut to the motor mount flex piece, etc.. I was also going to get some of the stick on weights next time I run it. They are 7g each. Where should Iadd them? I'm guessing like 20-30g down the center and maybe one in each corner front and rear? And also maybe taking some toe-in out of the rear and shimming the front arms 1mm toward the rear so there is more weight on the front tires. Right now they are shimmed even in front and behind the arms I figured I could move the shims all to the front of the arm
12-09-2016 | 12:57 AM
#627
Tech Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,098
From: Oxfordshire, UK
And you've raised the front roll-centre on the arm mounts, plus widened the front track, which will give it a ton of understeer.
Try it with the same inserts (0.5 angled) but set low and out instead of high and out.
Try it with the same inserts (0.5 angled) but set low and out instead of high and out.
12-09-2016 | 01:34 AM
#628
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,951
From: Windsor, UK
You're going to need to get another gear diff with thicker oil (than the rear) and install that in the front.
A spool will lock the front up too much, and it will also put a huge strain on your front driveshafts.
Not sure what oil you need as by the time I was racing TC's we were on rubber tyres (and gear diffs were a few years off).
100-500k oil perhaps.
12-09-2016 | 03:37 AM
#629
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 59
From: Hawthorne
If anyone has interest, I have genuine t4'17 flex aluminum chassis for sale, never used!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302160125672...84.m1555.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302160125672...84.m1555.l2649
12-10-2016 | 07:02 AM
#630
Looking for some guidance for setting up shocks and springs. WE run on a track with a couple of bumpy sections and medium traction, what rebound would be recommended for this type of track? My 2015, which I plan to use for GT, is set up with zero rebound but that was set up without any input about what is best for our conditions.....would like to get off to a good start with the new car.
Also, when selecting springs and placement does anyone run stiffer springs in the rear of the car?....and what does that do for handling characteristics. Been running stiffer in front but I'm considering a change for the new car.
Thanks in advance,
Also, when selecting springs and placement does anyone run stiffer springs in the rear of the car?....and what does that do for handling characteristics. Been running stiffer in front but I'm considering a change for the new car.
Thanks in advance,