Hi guys , what's up . Quick question for anyone who can answer . How many degrees of steering throw do u guys run ?

As much as possible. Ive been using the Avid ball stud spacers instead of the standard spacer. It allows you the extra degree of steering throw.

Usually about 25, but it really depends on the track.

Anyone have the 20 or 30g weight installed in the '17? Curious if it still works as a battery stop option? Almost looks like the holes were moved towards the electronics side of the car, but I don't have a '16 to compare it to.

The xray battery weight won't fit sadly.

As for other questions;

Shock length - 8.9mm of exposed shaft

Steering - 20-25deg. Depends on the track. I should have run more lock on the weekend.

Shocks - check after every race for air. If noisy, rebuild. Can be 3months between builds. Can be built 3 times in a race meet. I have 3 sets of shocks though, one has PSS in permanently, so that helps.

Diffs - only if need a different weight to what is in the 3 I own. Will rebuild prior to a major meet too. Build them right and they don't leak.

I have used serpent brass weights, as they are taller, and will fit in the center section of the chassis.

Quick question: I've started my build, and while the manual talks about the spur gear as being offset, it really doesn't look offset to me. Has anyone else noticed this?

If it's the same 48dp 84 tooth spur as is included in T4'16, then it's not offset. Most of the other xray spurs are offset though.

Im not seeing an XRAY T3 forum so im going to post here but someone please link me to the other thread if it exists.

I just bought an ARTR USVTA spec T3.

Before i put it on the track i was looking for advice on anything I might want to do first such as rebuild the diffs and the shocks.

Is there anything I should be picking up parts wise or do before I take it out for my first practice?

Also for the shock rebuild is there a total kit or should i buy a specific list of stuff to rebuild them with if there isnt?

thanks in advance.

If you've just bought a second hand car, it might be an idea to rebuild almost the entire car, so you can find anything that might need replacing.

You'll need the exploded diagram for your model as the parts have changed since then, some are compatible, some aren't.
For the shocvks I would replace the shock bladders and O-rings.

ok cool I got the oring package, are these the bladders? and is there something comparable on amain or tower hobbies

http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-10mm...ers_p_528.html

Has anyone had issues with slop using the 302525 alu dual servo saver arm. Mine seem to have a lot of play

common problem with them. The most common solution is to actually use some of the plastic of the bag they came in. with the bearing removed, lay a corner of the plastic bag over the arm, and then insert the bearing, so a small portion of the bag gets wedged in between the servo arm and the bearing. That should take care of the excess play. trim the plastic so its flush against the arm / bearing, and you should be all set.

follow this link for more details:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Xray...9448835607997/

Thanks it did my head in

I think most people use .1 or .2 shims to take the play out.