256LikesTamiya TRF419
09-20-2016 | 01:15 PM
#2885
Hi Craig,
One of these:
It's a 'double cardinal joint shaft', it's the ones that go in the front. I believe the part number is 42217.
This one has ended up so badly bent that it's making a clicking noise as it rotates. It's only a matter of time before it shatters. Unfortunately I have a spare rear but no spare fronts.
If you have one spare it would be a big help as I'm running at Halifax this weekend. I can run it bent and if it smashes use my wet car but it'd be nice to have the peace of mind, especially as my wet car is a bit of a tank!
Thanks
One of these:
It's a 'double cardinal joint shaft', it's the ones that go in the front. I believe the part number is 42217.
This one has ended up so badly bent that it's making a clicking noise as it rotates. It's only a matter of time before it shatters. Unfortunately I have a spare rear but no spare fronts.
If you have one spare it would be a big help as I'm running at Halifax this weekend. I can run it bent and if it smashes use my wet car but it'd be nice to have the peace of mind, especially as my wet car is a bit of a tank!
Thanks
09-20-2016 | 07:48 PM
#2886
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,972
From: All over the place
I think there's a number of paces in Europe where you can get it quicker than from Asia. Have you tried Toni's shop in Germany? Tonisport, he's the Euro importer for Tamiya. Might even be able to let you know where you find the part on the shelf if he doesn't have it in stock. That would be my first port of call.
Failing that, if you don't run a front spool you can run a rear driveshaft on the front.
Failing that, you can run a Yokomo driveshaft if you find one in stock.
Failing that, there's other combos, I think even Schumacher parts would fit, but I can't remember if you need the newest one or an older one.
PS. Tonisport have the (whole) driveshaft set in stock:
https://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispo...cs-for-TRF419X
Failing that, if you don't run a front spool you can run a rear driveshaft on the front.
Failing that, you can run a Yokomo driveshaft if you find one in stock.
Failing that, there's other combos, I think even Schumacher parts would fit, but I can't remember if you need the newest one or an older one.
PS. Tonisport have the (whole) driveshaft set in stock:
https://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispo...cs-for-TRF419X
09-21-2016 | 03:33 AM
#2887
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 169
Overall length of the TRF419x's stock shocks
Hi guys,
I am currently building the 4 shocks for my TRF419x shocks. However, the assembly manual does not state the overall length of the shock upon building. May I know what is the recommended full length of the shock (including caps and piston being pulled out totally)?
Thank you.
I am currently building the 4 shocks for my TRF419x shocks. However, the assembly manual does not state the overall length of the shock upon building. May I know what is the recommended full length of the shock (including caps and piston being pulled out totally)?
Thank you.
09-21-2016 | 03:54 AM
#2888
I think there's a number of paces in Europe where you can get it quicker than from Asia. Have you tried Toni's shop in Germany? Tonisport, he's the Euro importer for Tamiya. Might even be able to let you know where you find the part on the shelf if he doesn't have it in stock. That would be my first port of call.
Failing that, if you don't run a front spool you can run a rear driveshaft on the front.
Failing that, you can run a Yokomo driveshaft if you find one in stock.
Failing that, there's other combos, I think even Schumacher parts would fit, but I can't remember if you need the newest one or an older one.
PS. Tonisport have the (whole) driveshaft set in stock:
https://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispo...cs-for-TRF419X
Failing that, if you don't run a front spool you can run a rear driveshaft on the front.
Failing that, you can run a Yokomo driveshaft if you find one in stock.
Failing that, there's other combos, I think even Schumacher parts would fit, but I can't remember if you need the newest one or an older one.
PS. Tonisport have the (whole) driveshaft set in stock:
https://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispo...cs-for-TRF419X
I did have a quick search of shops in Europe and the only places that could guarantee delivery in time (it'd have to get here for Friday) would have cost a lot of money.
09-21-2016 | 04:50 AM
#2889
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 49
From: Netherlands
09-21-2016 | 05:00 AM
#2890
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,972
From: All over the place
Well, you're between a rock and a hard place. Have you looked at EMS out of HK? That'll get it to you in three days.
09-21-2016 | 05:26 PM
#2892
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 169
It has to do with the rotating mass of the diff high or low. The higher the rotating mass on a car the higher the cog.
If you change cog you have to tune your roll center too. The result is more or less grip on the affected axle.
Other effect and the most important, is the geometry of the axles (angle of the dogbones). If you lower the diff, you have less on power traction, because the affected axle wants to straighten itself out and press the arm/tire into ground, when you accelerate. If you raise the diff, the effects are vice versa.
It's one of the many tuning options the car offers to you. But tuning the height of diffs is one of the last fine tuning options I would do. Better do the right basic setup first...tires, springs, shock oil, hinge pin blocks etc.
Regards.
If you change cog you have to tune your roll center too. The result is more or less grip on the affected axle.
Other effect and the most important, is the geometry of the axles (angle of the dogbones). If you lower the diff, you have less on power traction, because the affected axle wants to straighten itself out and press the arm/tire into ground, when you accelerate. If you raise the diff, the effects are vice versa.
It's one of the many tuning options the car offers to you. But tuning the height of diffs is one of the last fine tuning options I would do. Better do the right basic setup first...tires, springs, shock oil, hinge pin blocks etc.
Regards.
Just want to understand a little bit more on changing the diff spool position too, as all along, I thought tightening or loosening the belt is just for belt tension purpose only. In layman term, if I want to have more grip on both of my front and rear, do I actually tighten or loosen the front and rear belt? Also if I tighten or loosen the belts, do I also need to change the dog bones' geometry (which I suppose you are referring to the camber turnbuckle's height) by adding shims to make the camber turnbuckle's height to look more horizontally straight or slant? The key thing is I need more grip on my TRF419x's front and rear.
The TRF419x setup manual only mention about loosening and tightening the belt by changing the "k" indicator's position.
Please advise and thank you.
09-22-2016 | 12:51 AM
#2893
Hi,
Just want to understand a little bit more on changing the diff spool position too, as all along, I thought tightening or loosening the belt is just for belt tension purpose only. In layman term, if I want to have more grip on both of my front and rear, do I actually tighten or loosen the front and rear belt? Also if I tighten or loosen the belts, do I also need to change the dog bones' geometry (which I suppose you are referring to the camber turnbuckle's height) by adding shims to make the camber turnbuckle's height to look more horizontally straight or slant? The key thing is I need more grip on my TRF419x's front and rear.
The TRF419x setup manual only mention about loosening and tightening the belt by changing the "k" indicator's position.
Please advise and thank you.
Just want to understand a little bit more on changing the diff spool position too, as all along, I thought tightening or loosening the belt is just for belt tension purpose only. In layman term, if I want to have more grip on both of my front and rear, do I actually tighten or loosen the front and rear belt? Also if I tighten or loosen the belts, do I also need to change the dog bones' geometry (which I suppose you are referring to the camber turnbuckle's height) by adding shims to make the camber turnbuckle's height to look more horizontally straight or slant? The key thing is I need more grip on my TRF419x's front and rear.
The TRF419x setup manual only mention about loosening and tightening the belt by changing the "k" indicator's position.
Please advise and thank you.
Now for the position of the diff, either in the high or low position, have to do with the cars center of gravity. Lowering the spools moves the CG lower which would improve handling. But how much does moving the diff spool a few mm affect handling? I guess you would have to try it to find out.
09-22-2016 | 01:22 AM
#2894
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 169
Tightening or loosening the belt is only, IMO, for freeing or tightening up the drive train. Belt stretch over time you adjust the tension according to the amount of sag you have on the belt. Tightening the belt also might also improve the initial responds, giving it a more "direct" feel feel as the belt doesnt need to take up the slackbefore the energy is transferred to the wheels, but this also means the motor is working harder because the drive train is not as smooth due to the tight belts.
Now for the position of the diff, either in the high or low position, have to do with the cars center of gravity. Lowering the spools moves the CG lower which would improve handling. But how much does moving the diff spool a few mm affect handling? I guess you would have to try it to find out.
Now for the position of the diff, either in the high or low position, have to do with the cars center of gravity. Lowering the spools moves the CG lower which would improve handling. But how much does moving the diff spool a few mm affect handling? I guess you would have to try it to find out.
09-22-2016 | 01:27 AM
#2895
How are everyone's shocks doing on their car? The big bore short body shocks that came on the 419x holds oil like a sieve. Ive tried all the tricks mentioned here. Adding copious amounts of green slim to seal the orings, did nothing. Added shims to "squeeze the orings, did nothing. I can see oil seeping out at the bottom just after 1 pack of battery and by the time Im done for the day there is significant oil loss in the shock which severely affects the handling of the car
Some did mention I should switch to the x-ring for a better seal which Ive bought but have yet to try. I was told that TRF shocks were one of the smoothest best performing shock out there but I guess they left out the part where they require oil top off after every run....
Im going to experiment with various orings and see which one stops the leak. Worst come to it I get some xray or yomoko shocks that I know for sure wouldnt leak.
Some did mention I should switch to the x-ring for a better seal which Ive bought but have yet to try. I was told that TRF shocks were one of the smoothest best performing shock out there but I guess they left out the part where they require oil top off after every run....
Im going to experiment with various orings and see which one stops the leak. Worst come to it I get some xray or yomoko shocks that I know for sure wouldnt leak.