Actually I've heard that the first body will be released for the GT 8th scale nitro class.

Here's the latest one I airbrushed for myself. Its the McAllister Jaguar. Its mounted on my Associated TC6. Thunder Power 21.5

The paint is all Faskolor. Weird combination of colors, I admit, but I like it.

Nice. Don't forget to cut that wing down to 10mm, unless if y'all have an open wing policy at your track.

I don't wish to start anything here, just have a question regarding rotors. The rules state,"Motor Specifications:
21.5 ROAR Approved No tuning rotors, must use OEM rotor". Can I get a clarification from the rules makers? If I need to replace the rotor in my motor can I replace it with a high strength rotor from the same manufacturer?

I'm not a rules maker, but my interpretation is that the "no tuning rotors" and "must use OEM rotor" mean that a high torque or high rpm rotor are illegal. (I interpret your "high strength" rotor to be a torque rotor).

I like the idea of USGT, but I'm afraid of the whole "stock racing" motor of the week, battery of the month, and charging batteries with 'cheater' chargers at 40 amps that are only avail outside the US. Is anyone having good luck running just "club" motors and packs charging at 1C? Seems like another cheaters class full of money, but I do like the way the cars look and intent of the class.

I am running USGT and not doing any of that shit. My car is just as fast as the competition. The difference is that I am not a good driver yet.

I'm not running anything special and I compete.

Icharger's are available anywhere... The guy thats currently killing it in USGT in northern california atm is using a 2+ year old tc6.2, 2nd hand tekin gen 3, gens ace batteries and does not charge at 40a...

We have a guy charging at 40a in our club, he's fast but were starting to keep up with him now. It took me some time to get the gearing and motor timing right. After that I saw that I needed more corner speed, so I reached out to the drivers that use the same chassis and now Im only a tenth off.
Im using a Hobbywing XR10 Pro with the new 21.5 v10 g2

Scott, nice paint work on the Jag. The angle of the pic helps me see the lines on the body better than what I've seen from other pics. I like the lines along the door. Gary had said it fits tight...looks good. Thanks for sharing.

What timing and gear are you running the motor at? I have tried that motor and can not get it to be fast for me unless it's coming off at 190 degrees plus. Running on a large asphalt track where gearing is around 3.00.

If your motor is fast but is coming off a 190• you are close either give it a little less gear or 2-3 degrees of less timing. These motors have a very narrow sweet spot sometimes it as small of a change of 1-2 teeth on the spur gear is the difference between hotrod or a blown rod.

Its not listed, but I have a yet un-painted Kyosho NSX-R bodyshell (similar to the one below) and its not on the list. I presume if my club is okay with me using it, it should be fine right?

https://www.kyosho.com/common/image.php?id=114456


MOmo

This is what the current rules state....

Your Local track can always make adjustments to this rule...
Please use the following if you want deviate from the Body list for local racing
Any 190mm or 200mm body.
Body can be anybody that is NOT or HAS NOT BEEN on the ROAR T2 body list.
FWD encouraged to use FWD bodies.
Can AM or IMSA style bodies, similar to 1/12 or 1/8 bodies using an integrated wing are illegal. EX:
Porsche 962 style bodies or LeMans P1. Japanese GT OK German DTM OK
NO Trucks vans minivans school buses garbage trucks, ultility vehicles, moon landers, zambonis,golf
carts, quads, etc allowed.
No fantasy or unproduced concept vehicles. If it’s not a car it’s not legal.
Track director or race promoter has the final say on legality of discontinued unlisted bodies.