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Old 07-11-2016 | 05:09 PM
  #2701  
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I had very good results this past weekend with the 419x running 17.5 blinky on asphalt!! I'm really liking it. Responds very well to setup changes.
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Old 07-11-2016 | 05:11 PM
  #2702  
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Liking the chrome decals also!!
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF419-image.jpg  
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Old 07-12-2016 | 07:00 AM
  #2703  
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Originally Posted by ittjv
With my amateurish measurements, using a Gforce Spring Rate Gauge, I found them to be about 14 lbs or close to C2.5. I hope someone can measure them with a better instrument to confirm or correct me. FYI, I also measured the SMJ springs and for sure, comparatively, the 419X black springs are softer than the SMJ Blue short. As always, I reserve the right to be wrong. Hope that helps though.
- Jose


Thank you!
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Old 07-12-2016 | 02:42 PM
  #2704  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Sorry about that. I'm on carpet. I was running 3k in the diff and after a crash managed to damage that diff. My spare was prepped with 7000, since that is what everyone has been running. They're also running front diff with 2.5 mill where as I'm still with a spool.

With both 3k and 7k the rear was still coming around off power.
Well I figured it out.. A bone head mistake on my part. When I rebuilt the shocks I put the X spring silver in front and red in rear. Oops. I'm headed to track today, hoping for an improved practice day
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Old 07-12-2016 | 02:42 PM
  #2705  
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I'm selling a couple new in package 419 chassis plates if anyone is in need. Factory Tamiya 51574 & Samix 419-1001S. Both plates for $80 shipped in the USA.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF419-img_4337.jpg   Tamiya TRF419-img_4338.jpg  
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Old 07-12-2016 | 02:48 PM
  #2706  
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What other Tamiya body series fit on the 419?
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Old 07-12-2016 | 02:57 PM
  #2707  
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Originally Posted by TheBen
What other Tamiya body series fit on the 419?
Pretty much any 257 mm wheel base body by Tamiya will fit.
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Old 07-14-2016 | 02:14 PM
  #2708  
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Originally Posted by Akaron
Acording to the manuals, both 419 &419x black o-rings seem to be the same... We are "forced" again to use non kit parts :S

Regards
Indeed 419x diff is not exactly the same. I have just realized when building that pins are 1mm longer. Somebody said he was using longer pins to avoid leaking so finally it should be a step forward done by tamiya regarding leaking problems.

I have just built one classic 419 diff with orange oring and one 419x with black oring + 9mm pins. I will let you know...

Regards
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Old 07-14-2016 | 02:24 PM
  #2709  
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Originally Posted by Akaron
Indeed 419x diff is not exactly the same. I have just realized when building that pins are 1mm longer. Somebody said he was using longer pins to avoid leaking so finally it should be a step forward done by tamiya regarding leaking problems.

I have just built one classic 419 diff with orange oring and one 419x with black oring + 9mm pins. I will let you know...

Regards
By the way, diff screws are a real pain. Do you know where can I order a better quality ones? Heads are almost gone in my first build :S. My 1.5 hex driver is not able to make a propper fit with such screw heads...
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Old 07-14-2016 | 11:26 PM
  #2710  
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Its most probably your driver thats worn down or the wrong size. I built the kit and have no problem with the screws included in the kit. They were a very snug fit on 2.5, 2.0 and 1.5mm hex
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Old 07-14-2016 | 11:59 PM
  #2711  
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Originally Posted by Akaron
By the way, diff screws are a real pain. Do you know where can I order a better quality ones? Heads are almost gone in my first build :S. My 1.5 hex driver is not able to make a propper fit with such screw heads...
Buy the original Tamiya screw driver set #74085 and you will have no problems any more. They fit perfect for all Tamiya screws and the plastic handles of the drivers give you a better feel of torque too.

Regards.
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Old 07-16-2016 | 01:44 AM
  #2712  
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Originally Posted by Raman
Pretty much any 257 mm wheel base body by Tamiya will fit.
I noticed, that the bumper foam of the 419x is ~5mm bigger. Good for protoforms but for standard Tamiya shells you have to cut some material away or use the old style foam bumper.
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Old 07-16-2016 | 04:48 PM
  #2713  
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Can someone please explain to me how the stabilizers work? In Step 19, it says to secure the stabilizer using BC24 & BC2 but not to tight that the stabilizer won't move. What is the purpose of BC24? If it isn't holding the stabilizer firm, that what is it doing? Should there be a little gap between BC24 and BC2 so the stabilizer has room to move?


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Old 07-16-2016 | 08:48 PM
  #2714  
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Originally Posted by H0LESH0T
Can someone please explain to me how the stabilizers work? In Step 19, it says to secure the stabilizer using BC24 & BC2 but not to tight that the stabilizer won't move. What is the purpose of BC24? If it isn't holding the stabilizer firm, that what is it doing? Should there be a little gap between BC24 and BC2 so the stabilizer has room to move?


BC24 stops the stabilizer from moving left-right. There's an option part that is a little easier to setup: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...-stopper-42295

As for the BC2 grub screws, they are there to stop the bar moving fore/aft. So, not tight enough to interfere with the bar rotating.

Phil.
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Old 07-17-2016 | 03:46 AM
  #2715  
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Originally Posted by PDR
BC24 stops the stabilizer from moving left-right. There's an option part that is a little easier to setup: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...-stopper-42295

As for the BC2 grub screws, they are there to stop the bar moving fore/aft. So, not tight enough to interfere with the bar rotating.

Phil.
Thanks, so BC24 gets tightened right down but the BC2 (grub screws) just get tighten down snug enough that the bar can move? That makes more sense just thought the way they said it on the instructions was that BC24 only gets tighten down snug as well and not tight.
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