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Well it happend, I've been driving Mugen forever and decides to make a change. I have a NT .3 coming and will be here on Wednesday. I'll build it this weekend, is there any absolute must haves for this truck as far as spares go? I travel about once a month too 3 day events so I'd like to have any common spares with me. Also is there any hop up type parts that make a big difference in performance or reliability? I'm super excited to try this new truck, I'll be the only local driver (for now) with one so my parts support and setup support will be just sheets and trial and error. I drive truck really hard that's why I'm switching I'm sick of breaking arms in my Mugen, but it was worth it because I knew the truck very very well, and it drives better when you push it. Unfortunately it seems like the simplest of mistakes cost me an arm ever single time. Thanks in advance for any advice on this new truck.

Get the delron shock guides and the alloy servo from Tekno. Also get the M2C throttle servo horn and shock cap inserts. The tekno inserts are rubbish and flog out really quick.

The truck doesnt really need anything tbh. Theyre really strong trucks. Can always just pick up the general spares like arms, hinge pins, clutch bearings, clutch shoes and shock boots.

Extras I would recommend are hinge pins, hinge pin inserts, aluminum steering servo horn from Tekno, and extra clutch bearings. The reason I say extra hinge pin inserts is from my experience when the hinge pin bends, it usually deforms the hinge pin insert changing the setting. I would stay away from the M2C throttle horn. I bought 2 horns and both of them would not fit on my servos without excessive force. One horn got stuck on my servo and the insert separated from the horn. I had to pry and dremel cut the insert off my servo. Luckily nothing got damaged. I was told the horn didn't fit nicely because of cheap servos, well I tried them again on my $180 ProTek Chad Bradley servos and still didn't fit and had to pry and cut the insert off my ProTek servo damaging the case a little. I would hate to see you have the same problem. I like M2C stuff, but the inserts used on the throttle horns don't fit worth crap. The stock plastic horn is plenty strong and I have never stripped one in the 3yrs I have raced my NT48. I am still using the original that came in the box

I literally had to hammer that horn on to my servos. Protek 150's. Glad I'm not the only one who saw an issue with That.

Same here, even with Savox I had to wiggle, tap and wiggle tap to get it in. But after that its awsome.

The only think I broke after direct frontal impact was the hinge pin brace "A" block and the GearBox. Also Plastic insert on the "B" block ripped off.
I would get extra front and rear gearboxes, and maybe the "A" Hinge pin brace.

I also put M2C quick change motor mount, optional wheel hubs and closed caps, aluminum center drive shafts, Ifmar tank, Revised front bumper, and Sumo skid plates.

So I'm mid build on this this just a few pages in and I run into my first mis step. Which diff support risers did you guys glue on? There's a thick one and a thin one. I don't know what the difference is? No reference in the manual

I sealed my vacuum port in mine and it helped but it's not an impressive engine, just my opinion. I've just had some issues that kinda left a bad taste in my mouth for the Roma's.

So this is my manual

Here is the manual online

I must have missed something when I was all excited opening the box I guess.

Try no spacer and if their is no rubbing of spur on the chassis u should be good. Thin spacer is used with stock spur but I notice to get a tighter bell & spur mesh with out spacers. Thicker spacers is for the optional taller spur gear.

Use the thin one. Just dab little glue onto the thin spacer so it holds it in place.

Really? My Roma really rocks with 9886/41001. From my experience roma sucks balls when used with restrictor anything smaller than a 7mm. I broke mine in with 9mm for a gallon and another gallon with an 8mm and now im on my 3rd gallon using 7mm. It rocks my world and i still have metal pinch and gets stuck up top. Used it with buku cap since new. Runs around 250-280 with 30% byron 9% oil.

We recommend no riser with the stock NT48.3 46t spur. Using the 1mm riser is left over from the original NT48 which came with a 48t.

I run a 9853/41019 and it is fine, I just get more power and economy out of my Paloma. I will put this Roma in my new 48.3 and see how it drives I need to go back to a 7mm restrictor. With the 8 I can't make a 7 min qualifier on a big fast track.

You mean the yellow head paloma? The .21 7 port? Really more power than the roma? Ok I gotta get me one of those.