Curently looking at getting one of these but can't find a place where I can buy all the options I want. I need this so I can have a single receipt to get my tax back when I leave the EU. Any advice?

I am primarily interested in the front suspension options (various angle and flex top suspension plates) and the front one way. Most online shops have one or two but none has all.

And one question. Is there a diff in the works for the future?

http://www.the-racing-shop.de/shop/i...14f5acc7c169d1

The differential would not be in keeping with the cars Concept of keeping it simple and fun. Thomas designed the car to be a simple entry into 1/8 from which people can grow. The car handles great as it is, and does not need any further variables. As a side note 1:8 IC 4wd runs no differential either.

Hi, my new body design 2016 is online:

www.buri-racer.com

And last weekend we had a race in Austria with 8 BURI-Racers and 3 others. Here some laps published in my Youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wVEF70Q7pk

Nice body design Tom!! ... And very nice driving to

Hi All.
Today I drove the Buri for the 2nd time. My home track is extremely slippery because of dust and pollen from the trees. The car had way too much steering. To reduce this, I installed the -1 degree camber bar and installed the chassis stiffner. The top dogs Nitro run fastest laptime: 15,01 sec. I managed 16,3. Not bad for a 2nd outing....
My rollout: 51mm. Motor: Hobbywing 2200kV. Battery: GensAce 4S 7000mAh. Max runtime: 10 minutes. After 10 minutes my motor was 53 degrees Centigrade, Battery 45 degrees. Tires front: 32sh, rear 34sh. SUPER FUN!

Hi there, from 5th to 10th of September there will be the EURO 40+ (Age limit).
At this event there will be also for the first time 1/8 Electric races under EFRA rules and its divided into 2 categories:
- Modified class for suspensioned cars with 6s (Shepherd Velox E and others)
- Stock class for unsuspensioned cars with 4s (BURI-Racers but also the 2wd's like the French classic cars).

This is a great success for me, because with this event my BURI-Racer cars are internationally established in their own class! And this after only one year after introduction!
We are searching for a number of drivers to race at this event. I will be there with my son, and maybe 4 further guys from Austria....

As far as i know there should be each 20 drivers in Modified and Stock class. Maybe there are some nitro drivers to try it with a Shepherd E or with a BURI-Racer to make the breaks between the heats shorter
Here are the links to the events details:
http://www.efra.ws/detail/?lk=329&fk=4&nk=0
and
http://www.myrcm.ch/myrcm/main?pLa=d...=7771&dFi=hamm

Hy there,

Tried the Buri racer on the mach track in the netherlands. met Thomas , who is a nice guy.

I was impressed with the car and mentioned some changes to Thomas wich he put on the car. The car was dialled with the PF128 and more caster and a Bigger pinion. Bocht one on the spot.

Real fun and so were others too really enthousiastic.
Hope they run this class next year. Maybe national please

Greetz JW

Is the new chassis available that runs 2x2 shorties? I run GT 1/8 nitro but run indoor 1/10 buggy so I have lots of shorty packs. I want to start running another onroad class when I drive down to the Track in Los Angeles. I think this class could pick up. Plus I want my 12 year old to start driving onroad and an electric will allow me to limit his throttle pretty easily.

The 2 shorts also fit stacked side by side in the normal car. It will be some time before the new chassis gets here, other than buying direct from Thomas.

I would rather be able to lay the 2 shorties down flat. I know Peter Martin from TKO bearings has a new chassis. What motors are guys running? 3S vs 4S Short course vs full sized 1/8th motor. I want to keep weight down so was looking at SC motor and shorty packs. This could save about 100 grams on motor and 200 grams on batteries. Than I can add weight were it needs to go to balance the car. Has anyone made a tweek board for these cars yet?

Got mine together today, no chance to test yet.

A very nice build and I like the precise fit and the no frills almost industrial look of the parts. I wish more manufacturers did away with all the pointless bling and bring prices down a bit in this hobby. Yeah, I know this is what attracts fanboys who must have the latest and stand out from "the crowd", which is what generates revenue, but I'd be happy with an "industrial" version of the car if it were cheaper. But this is for another thread.

Did anyone here find a problem with the alignment of the two drive pulleys and/or the belt tensioners? I found my belt wants to stay over to the left to the point that it rubs a bit on the front pulley as if it would want climb on the left side guide. I managed to control the tendency with the tensioner roller but am not sure I didn't do something wrong.

Another question for people running the L shorty battery configuration, how do you strap them in? Just go all the way along the front battery from the front battery stop and across the top of the rear one? Not sure if I am going to run this configuration, but placing the batteries in the car it hit me.

After i tried one at the Mach track I build my car last week and the fit and finish was really good, the same as any of the big brand cars i have build. The only issue i had was that the left outdrive on the one way rubbed against the housing, so i sanded the outdrive untill it moved free.

I Ran the car for the first time on a small/medium track today and the other drivers where surpised how fast it was and how good it handled.

I am using a Hobbywing Max10sct and an 1850kv tenshock motor.
I got around 7 minutes of runtime on an 5800 4s battery and the motor was 80C/176F after the run. Is this a good temperature for the motor or should i change the gearing? I was using a 16t pionion and 56 spur.

80C is just about the limit. I would go smaller on the pinion: 14t.
My home track is AMCA. I run a 2200kV motor, 13/56 gearing and use a fan to cool the motor...

hee Peter, how was the rear grip on Gouda? And did you balance the car left right. Glad you liked the car. I had also the rubbing of the right front outdrive. Seems the C clip is too tight and distorts the alu.. change it for a velox front wheel outdrive clip which goes the whole circle. Hope too see you soon.

Greetz