I was just bashing around. It's been too cold and rainy to go to the track. I've been getting out when the rain lets up. I don't have any videos. I need to get a camera. That's one thing I don't have.

oh ok, I just wanted to see some eb48.3 bashing !

Watch the Psycho Nitro Blast coverage on LiveRC this weekend. Lutz always does some crazy stuff with his at that race.

Was there ever a Tekno guide realeased? I remember reading about it but did a full tuning guide ever get realeased?

Negative. It's a work in progress....There is one out there, but it's not accurate to the new vehicles yet.

im about to start my build of th eb48.3 and im unclear if i need to buy any of the nut drivers because they are listed as 1.2 11.32 etc instead of mm as they show on the tekno box.

these are the tools I have so im asking for input if i need to buy additional nut drivers.

http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associate...ef_=sr_ph&sr=1

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-7..._7&s=hi&sr=1-7

second part of that is if i buy the tekno nut drivers should i just get one handle and the bits seperately? it doesnt look like theres a set. Im laos guessing i need the wheel and shock wrench no matter what in addition to the tekno shock tool.

thanks in advance guys!

Skip the AE drivers, get MIP below:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIP-9502-Met...cAAOSwyjBW6jsm

Skip the black and decker...You need actual metric...Like these.
http://www.amazon.com/Pack-Essential...+driver+metric

Something needed for the build, and helpful for the toolbox is a 4mm reamer for the arms.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hudy-4Mm-Rea...AAAOSw--1Ws6RY



As for the tekno shock tool, it's one of my favorite tools, period... SOO helpful.

http://fiercercsolutions.com/TKR1115...um-TKR1115.htm

That combined with this will make shock building easy.
http://fiercercsolutions.com/TKR1116...ol-TKR1116.htm

If you already have those, the Associated hex driver there will work fine. I personally didn't care for the quality of the tips, but there are certainly worse ones on the market. You'll use the metric sizes on it, which are the 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm. Note that the 2.0mm size is not listed, but is actually there, as it doubles with one of the imperial sizes that they do list.

As for the nut drivers, it looks like those are all also imperial (aka "standard" and done in fractions of an inch). Those will NOT be the correct sizes.

You will need 5mm for the shock piston nut, 5.5mm for a few other nuts, and 7mm for some nuts. I don't believe the 8mm is needed for anything other than the short course wheel nuts.

You CAN get just 1 handle from Tekno and the tips you need, but if you want to use 2 at the same time, such as many often do for putting the shocks onto the towers, then you'll want at least 2 handles. Since you only need 3 of the 4 nut drivers, and it is cheaper to get the handle and driver tip together than apart, I'd just pick up the nut drivers as a whole tool, and then you'll be good to go.

As for the shock wrench multi-tool...it is my favorite tool, so I highly highly recommend it!

Thanks for linking one of my videos. Glad it helped you out!
I expect to get another short one up for this coming tuesday.

thanks for the tip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjk3...&nohtml5=False
I didn't find much except this tekno jumping high @ 2.39

I had my first race this night and unfourunately I have to say I am a little upset with the buggy. Before I bent a shock shaft from practicing and now I just blew a bearing on my first race (both with the buggy and for myself). I'm not bad at driving either because I was too good for the novice class according to the people I was racing. The bearing I blew was the one that goes on the inside of the rear hub. It was an unfortunate and unexpected experience but hopefully I will be able to race the whole thing next time. At the beginning this buggy was doing very well in my opinion and when it did crash it was my fault not the buggy's. I guess I have bad luck or something with this buggy because it seems like I'm part of the few people that break this buggy.

Well I just got mine built and all the electronics are dialed in. One thing I noticed:

When holding it in the air, and hitting the throttle I noticed the wheels don't spin as long as i feel it should. Compared to my sct410 or my 8.2e. I've checked all the shafts and diffs for binding but nothing seemed bound. Is this normal?

it could have to do with your ESC settings. The motor will act like a brake and not allow your wheels to spin. You could take off the pinion and spin the wheels by hand to feel for any binding.

I did and it feels great. I checked to see if the drag brag got turned back on somehow as well and nothings there. I did however replace the motors bearings before putting it on the kit. Could that have anything to do with it? I put the motor back together exact opposite of how i took it apart so it should be fine there.