22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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04-02-2016, 01:28 PM
#1426
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.
Thanks! Is there any concern with breakage since the tabs on the C and D blocks aren't engaging the chassis as much, or at all?
04-02-2016, 02:52 PM
#1427
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.
Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
04-03-2016, 05:09 PM
#1429
Hello all! I just ordered my kit so it will be here within the week. Upgrading from the rc8.2e. My brother wants to get into the novice buggy scene so I capitalized on that scenario and viola! EB48.3 on the way. Is there anything you guys would suggest on the new build?
Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.
Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.
Last edited by Cuebulon; 04-03-2016 at 06:07 PM.
04-04-2016, 04:01 AM
#1430
Hello all! I just ordered my kit so it will be here within the week. Upgrading from the rc8.2e. My brother wants to get into the novice buggy scene so I capitalized on that scenario and viola! EB48.3 on the way. Is there anything you guys would suggest on the new build?
Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.
Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.
04-04-2016, 05:24 AM
#1431
For all the guys asking me about the shims used to raise the rear trans, 3DGY has them for sale in 2 different sizes. 1.5mm and 2.5mm. Start with 1.5mm and adjust from there. When you add the shim, make sure you change your C and D inserts
C = 1 dot down
D = 2 dot down
Also run the inner rear camber link in 2 hole or lower
so basically lower everything 1 spot
Link to the shims https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collections/frontpage
C = 1 dot down
D = 2 dot down
Also run the inner rear camber link in 2 hole or lower
so basically lower everything 1 spot
Link to the shims https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collections/frontpage
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.
Also, what's with the trimmed section on the arms in the photo?
04-04-2016, 06:09 AM
#1432
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.
Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
04-04-2016, 06:13 AM
#1433
When Mike made the shims, he was thinking pro-actively and made them so they would fit the front as well. We're not using them on the front yet, but it's something that will get tested for sure.
The only difference between the front one and rear one is the front one is not quite a long to accommodate the kickup in the front end. You can use the front one in the rear if you like.
As far as the arms...We've been dremelling away the middle of the arm on all of our cars. This makes the car/truck land better off the jumps and just gives an overall more plush feeling.
04-04-2016, 06:22 AM
#1434
Correct.
I would also recommend the TiNi shock shafts, the delrin shock inserts, Pink Front Springs, Red Rear springs, 2.3 and 2.5 sway bars (for front and rear).
That will give you the common springs, along with 1 step up and 1 step down on the sway bars (kit is 2.4).
I would also recommend the TiNi shock shafts, the delrin shock inserts, Pink Front Springs, Red Rear springs, 2.3 and 2.5 sway bars (for front and rear).
That will give you the common springs, along with 1 step up and 1 step down on the sway bars (kit is 2.4).
04-04-2016, 07:49 AM
#1435
Tech Regular
What exactly does going to the .2 hubs and blocks do for a .3? I get that you get more steering but how does it get more steering. Also what's the downside. My track it a rough outdoor often dry and dusty do I would love some more steering. I have the parts just like to understand the changes before I Make em
04-05-2016, 11:16 AM
#1437
We just released a new one that has two holes rather than the original with the single hole as well uses M3 screws for both the clamping and mounting screws
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5253b...p-double-hole/
Here's the product description:
-------------------------------------------------------
The Tekno RC Aluminum Servo Horns were designed to minimize forces transmitted back to the servo spline. It utilizes a bottom mount design that, as opposed to a top mount, lowers the leverage point. This means your servos will be protected better to keep you in the race.
There are two mounting positions to fine tune your application. A hefty M3 locking screw ensures the servo horn will never come loose again. The M3 screw is also easy to tighten down compared to the smaller M2 screws that easily strip out on other servo horns. Use TKR1325 (M3x14mm flathead screw) for mounting the steering linkage to your Tekno RC vehicle. Use thread locking compound on all metal-to-metal connections.
These were designed specifically for the Tekno RC line of vehicles, but they can be used in most other applications as well.
**We strongly recommend using the inside (short) mounting hole for use in Tekno RC vehicles. This will make the steering response smoother and also protect your servo better.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5253b...p-double-hole/
Here's the product description:
-------------------------------------------------------
The Tekno RC Aluminum Servo Horns were designed to minimize forces transmitted back to the servo spline. It utilizes a bottom mount design that, as opposed to a top mount, lowers the leverage point. This means your servos will be protected better to keep you in the race.
There are two mounting positions to fine tune your application. A hefty M3 locking screw ensures the servo horn will never come loose again. The M3 screw is also easy to tighten down compared to the smaller M2 screws that easily strip out on other servo horns. Use TKR1325 (M3x14mm flathead screw) for mounting the steering linkage to your Tekno RC vehicle. Use thread locking compound on all metal-to-metal connections.
These were designed specifically for the Tekno RC line of vehicles, but they can be used in most other applications as well.
**We strongly recommend using the inside (short) mounting hole for use in Tekno RC vehicles. This will make the steering response smoother and also protect your servo better.
04-05-2016, 01:36 PM
#1438
I've never tested the JConcepts wing, but I choose to run the Pro-line Trifecta wing for its adjustable wickerbills. It holds up especially well on big blown out outdoor tracks because its easier to make bad mistakes on low grip. Normally only indoors I'll put the lexan wing on for more rotation.
04-05-2016, 01:45 PM
#1439
What exactly does going to the .2 hubs and blocks do for a .3? I get that you get more steering but how does it get more steering. Also what's the downside. My track it a rough outdoor often dry and dusty do I would love some more steering. I have the parts just like to understand the changes before I Make em
04-05-2016, 06:09 PM
#1440
Never mind... Seems fine after assembly
Last edited by Slapjack; 04-05-2016 at 08:24 PM.