Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#2956
I have a .3, it is a battle proven beast but getting it to rotate is a battle
#2958
Tech Master
They are almost exactly the same. Believe the buggy one is slightly lighter than the SCT.
#2960
Tech Rookie
New to the forum. This is a great source!
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4
If not what all do you need to replace to do so?
Thanks!
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4
If not what all do you need to replace to do so?
Thanks!
#2961
Tech Rookie
If you want to run the .4 C and D blocks you will need to upgrade to a complete .4 rear end. The .3 CVD's/uni's will not work, nor will the arms, etc. You can run a .3 chassis in a pinch, but the rear droop screws barely touch the pads. You will also need to open up the "key-way" for the C-block in the chassis by about 1mm.
Can you replace the A, B, C, and D blocks on the EB48.1 with the blocks on the .4
If not what all do you need to replace to do so?
Thanks!
#2962
No. You can use the same block from .1 to .3. The .4 is a completely different car, with all new suspension geometry. About the only parts shared with the older versions are the diffs, center drive shafts, and diff bulkheads.
#2963
Tech Rookie
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. Im an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can.
My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on.
Just wondering if Im missing out on some adjustability and handling if I dont upgrade.
#2964
Tech Master
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. I’m an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can.
My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on.
Just wondering if I’m missing out on some adjustability and handling if I don’t upgrade.
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. I’m an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can.
My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on.
Just wondering if I’m missing out on some adjustability and handling if I don’t upgrade.
Long answer below
IMHO, the .3 car negated any buggy before it (the eb48.2 was still a good car), but they also released the KIT EB48SL, which is the sct410.3 for the prolite class.
That said, if your outdoors, you would enjoy a little more consistency and stability of the full size buggy. The .3 would be an upgrade, and the eb48.4 is an upgrade over that.
If your looking to buy, the .4 is the way to go. Easier to drive, and the recommended setup they have on teknoRC.com is really good. I'm only a couple changes from it. You will find that setup on the eb48.4 to be where you want it, when compared with months of fiddling with any of the previous cars.
The nice thing about the .4, is if you run indoors, swap everything over to 2s electronics to the class requirements, and you make weight for the class. So you can run your .4 indoors and not need another buggy.
#2965
Tech Regular
Thank you, MX304! Interesting. The a-d blocks look like they have the same block insert configs for the .3 and .4 when you look at teknos racer setup sheets. Know what I mean?
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. Im an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can.
My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on.
Just wondering if Im missing out on some adjustability and handling if I dont upgrade.
I have an sct410 that I bought the buggy conversion for before thy cameout with the EB48.2
Would you recommend selling it and upgrading to a .4? Does .4 really handle a drive that much better? Is it worth the trouble and effort. Im an intermediate driver and race locally on backyard tracks in the northern CA area so nothing serious. I just love to have the best car possible if I can.
My conversion kit buggy drives pretty amazing and I bought the top of the line upgrades for it at the time. Carbon shock towers, lightweight outdrives, aluminum coned shock pistons, and on and on.
Just wondering if Im missing out on some adjustability and handling if I dont upgrade.
#2967
Tech Rookie
They do use the same pills, but the blocks and chassis themselves are different for different geometry
Short answer, get the .4.
Long answer below
IMHO, the .3 car negated any buggy before it (the eb48.2 was still a good car), but they also released the KIT EB48SL, which is the sct410.3 for the prolite class.
That said, if your outdoors, you would enjoy a little more consistency and stability of the full size buggy. The .3 would be an upgrade, and the eb48.4 is an upgrade over that.
If your looking to buy, the .4 is the way to go. Easier to drive, and the recommended setup they have on teknoRC.com is really good. I'm only a couple changes from it. You will find that setup on the eb48.4 to be where you want it, when compared with months of fiddling with any of the previous cars.
The nice thing about the .4, is if you run indoors, swap everything over to 2s electronics to the class requirements, and you make weight for the class. So you can run your .4 indoors and not need another buggy.
Short answer, get the .4.
Long answer below
IMHO, the .3 car negated any buggy before it (the eb48.2 was still a good car), but they also released the KIT EB48SL, which is the sct410.3 for the prolite class.
That said, if your outdoors, you would enjoy a little more consistency and stability of the full size buggy. The .3 would be an upgrade, and the eb48.4 is an upgrade over that.
If your looking to buy, the .4 is the way to go. Easier to drive, and the recommended setup they have on teknoRC.com is really good. I'm only a couple changes from it. You will find that setup on the eb48.4 to be where you want it, when compared with months of fiddling with any of the previous cars.
The nice thing about the .4, is if you run indoors, swap everything over to 2s electronics to the class requirements, and you make weight for the class. So you can run your .4 indoors and not need another buggy.
Ill start looking for a clean slightly used .4 roller
#2968
Tech Rookie
#2969
They both share the same layout and are interchangeable. The EB48.3 Chassis is listed as being hard-anodized and 7075 aluminum construction. The SCT410.3 Chassis isn't hard anodized as far as I know and was said to be constructed of 6065 aluminum in an email response from Tekno customer service.
#2970
my eb48.3 jumping a 360° . some guys do it nicely on racing tracks, i have to do it my way !
https://youtu.be/RHUiGKEVKv0
https://youtu.be/RHUiGKEVKv0