Thanks for the information fellas. Have you all moved on to the mid motor cars? I'd ask ya some specifics about different motors, but I'll ask this instead: is the suggested gearing in the manual pretty reliable?

Have we all moved on to mid motor cars. For the most part many of us have moved on to the MM platform. The B5m is an amazing chassis and just works great. The do drive different and take some time to get used to when coming from a RM chassis

AE has always done a great job at giving suggested gear ratios. They are just a starting point but it is where I have always started. Unless I am running on a really small track or a really large track they seem to be a great place to start.

Good Luck hope this helps.

Alan

Thanks for writing. I would have liked to get the b5m and t5m, but just getting back into the hobby and getting my kids in for the first time. Figured I'd stick with T4's since I know them in and out, and my son has decided to try buggy. I'm going to have to try one of the mid motor ae cars this summer I imagine. Have been trying to keep us all in the same cars to this point for parts/battery sharing. Just downloaded the 4.2 manual, have to give it a read this evening. Thanks all for your input.

I just am throwing this here because you guys will likely understand, I would like to thank ae for the large bur on there shock pistons for the big bores, due to where it attached to the tree. I just waisted a piece of my life making the shock action smooth!!! 2016? Tree's pistons, b5m shocks?
Whew!!! Vrp's on order!!

I want to pick up an rtr body to use for practice, will it fit the factory team car?

..pretty new to buggies - acquired a total of (4) B4.1's or B4.2's

One has mostly new parts, was never finished being assembled....got it all built today, went to run it and there's something not correct in the trans build...no biggie, I grabbed one off one of the other cars...it won't INSTALL

Looking at the rear trans mount, they are different, one appears that the trans sits lower on and I'm guessing there's some slight changes on the trans case. (PULLING HAIR OUT for a 5 minute trans swap...now I have two buggies ALL torn apart and I'm not a happy camper)

Which is which on that rear mounting plate (lower one B4.1 or B4.2?)

Hi,

The B4.2 used a metric bearing on the diff outdrives.
So had a different (bigger around diff) gearbox case to the original b4 series.

Because it was bigger around the diff, the t plate (where you mount the gearbox to) was also bigger.

So new gearbox, needs new t plate. But old gear box will mount to new t plate.

MiCk B. :-)

I have a little issue with a B4.2, in the ball diff. Running in 2WD stock, and the diff was coming loose, usually after only around a minute of running. Replaced the locking nut with a new one (#6575) however the result is still the same. Surface is regular, untreated dirt track, slipper set so slip can be heard for around 2 seconds on a full throttle launch.
Is it possible the diff needs to be fitted the other way around? I'm thinking it may be unwinding itself, though the manual does not appear to show anything in this regard. The way it is currently fitted, the adjustment screw is accessed from the right hand side.

I would replace the nut, spring and thrust assembly. It doesn't matter which way its installed, if it did it would loosen one way and tighten the other. Also make sure to break it in properly, there should be a sticky at the top of the electric off-road thread with a video on how to.

Make sure to install the screw and nut in the proper diff halves

Put the Allen head on the right side. No sense in having a screw turning in the direction that would unscrew it.

anyone converted the b4.2 to 4wd

Will the clear gear cover asc7461 fit over the VTS clutch? AE says it's fits the 4.2 models but doesn't clarify if it fits the VTS...... to me it looks identical to the stock cover.
Thx

According to the B4.2FT manual that is the cover for the VTS slipper.

DOH!!!
Why didn't I think of looking there!?!?
Thanks!!!
LOL

My son's Associated B4.2 buggy stops while he is driving it (sometimes after 10 laps, sometimes after only 1). It just rolls to a stop and doesn't respond to throttle or steering. The ESC stays lit but the receiver flashes red. The only way to bring the car back online is to pull the battery cable and reinstall. (I removed the on/off switch when it first started cutting off.) I'm running 2S Lipo.

Car has a Savox servo and a Traxxas receiver--all else is from the kit.

Anyone have any ideas? I think I may need a Glitchbuster but I've never used one.

Thanks