Tamiya mini cooper
Nothing wrong with the stock hinge pins thingies.
Hind sight is 20/20. Thought I needed all these upgrades when I first got into mini to be competitive. Wrong.
The blue chassis is my competitive M03 mini I blinged out 6 years ago. For some reason, The less I took care of it the faster I went. Anytime any of my club mates like a good laugh they just have a look at my cars I'm running. Currently in my 5.5 turn Mod TC I have both sides C-hubs looking like "C" where the CVDs pass thru instead of looking like "O". Been like 5 months of consistent racing and they still haven't completely broken. I say it helps me stay away from the boards!
Strictly speaking chassis upgrades necessary in my opinion in a M03 are a decent diff, oil shocks and a good servo saver. For the M05 I think the aluminum steering rack would be a good thing.
Other than that work on your driving. I read a thing about Bob Stormer's consistency number. (Sorry if I butcher your definition). Basically your top 15 or 20 laps average minus your fast lap. For a beginner try to work towards getting under 0.3 seconds difference. If you're inconsistent no upgrades are gonna help you. If you're under 0.2 seconds there maybe room for improvement in setup. If you're under 0.1 seconds, that's probably all you're gonna get out of that car. I usually look at this number after a heat and this also changes my mind frame that I'm really racing against myself. I'm super happy when I'm in the 0.05-0.1 second consistency.
Bottom line get more track time!
Ivan
Hind sight is 20/20. Thought I needed all these upgrades when I first got into mini to be competitive. Wrong.
The blue chassis is my competitive M03 mini I blinged out 6 years ago. For some reason, The less I took care of it the faster I went. Anytime any of my club mates like a good laugh they just have a look at my cars I'm running. Currently in my 5.5 turn Mod TC I have both sides C-hubs looking like "C" where the CVDs pass thru instead of looking like "O". Been like 5 months of consistent racing and they still haven't completely broken. I say it helps me stay away from the boards!
Strictly speaking chassis upgrades necessary in my opinion in a M03 are a decent diff, oil shocks and a good servo saver. For the M05 I think the aluminum steering rack would be a good thing.
Other than that work on your driving. I read a thing about Bob Stormer's consistency number. (Sorry if I butcher your definition). Basically your top 15 or 20 laps average minus your fast lap. For a beginner try to work towards getting under 0.3 seconds difference. If you're inconsistent no upgrades are gonna help you. If you're under 0.2 seconds there maybe room for improvement in setup. If you're under 0.1 seconds, that's probably all you're gonna get out of that car. I usually look at this number after a heat and this also changes my mind frame that I'm really racing against myself. I'm super happy when I'm in the 0.05-0.1 second consistency.
Bottom line get more track time!
Ivan
Nothing wrong with the stock hinge pins thingies.
Hind sight is 20/20. Thought I needed all these upgrades when I first got into mini to be competitive. Wrong.
The blue chassis is my competitive M03 mini I blinged out 6 years ago. For some reason, The less I took care of it the faster I went. Anytime any of my club mates like a good laugh they just have a look at my cars I'm running. Currently in my 5.5 turn Mod TC I have both sides C-hubs looking like "C" where the CVDs pass thru instead of looking like "O". Been like 5 months of consistent racing and they still haven't completely broken. I say it helps me stay away from the boards!
Strictly speaking chassis upgrades necessary in my opinion in a M03 are a decent diff, oil shocks and a good servo saver. For the M05 I think the aluminum steering rack would be a good thing.
Other than that work on your driving. I read a thing about Bob Stormer's consistency number. (Sorry if I butcher your definition). Basically your top 15 or 20 laps average minus your fast lap. For a beginner try to work towards getting under 0.3 seconds difference. If you're inconsistent no upgrades are gonna help you. If you're under 0.2 seconds there maybe room for improvement in setup. If you're under 0.1 seconds, that's probably all you're gonna get out of that car. I usually look at this number after a heat and this also changes my mind frame that I'm really racing against myself. I'm super happy when I'm in the 0.05-0.1 second consistency.
Bottom line get more track time!
Ivan
Hind sight is 20/20. Thought I needed all these upgrades when I first got into mini to be competitive. Wrong.
The blue chassis is my competitive M03 mini I blinged out 6 years ago. For some reason, The less I took care of it the faster I went. Anytime any of my club mates like a good laugh they just have a look at my cars I'm running. Currently in my 5.5 turn Mod TC I have both sides C-hubs looking like "C" where the CVDs pass thru instead of looking like "O". Been like 5 months of consistent racing and they still haven't completely broken. I say it helps me stay away from the boards!
Strictly speaking chassis upgrades necessary in my opinion in a M03 are a decent diff, oil shocks and a good servo saver. For the M05 I think the aluminum steering rack would be a good thing.
Other than that work on your driving. I read a thing about Bob Stormer's consistency number. (Sorry if I butcher your definition). Basically your top 15 or 20 laps average minus your fast lap. For a beginner try to work towards getting under 0.3 seconds difference. If you're inconsistent no upgrades are gonna help you. If you're under 0.2 seconds there maybe room for improvement in setup. If you're under 0.1 seconds, that's probably all you're gonna get out of that car. I usually look at this number after a heat and this also changes my mind frame that I'm really racing against myself. I'm super happy when I'm in the 0.05-0.1 second consistency.
Bottom line get more track time!
Ivan
http://www.rctech.net/forum/3191698-post3775.html
I've just spend the last few weeks reading all 1770+ pages in this thread. I read it slightly out of order. I first read about Ivans bone-stock challenge, but when I started the thread from the beginning and found his first post I had to double-take on who was actually posting.

Other then that I have the extra weights up front in the bumper and the front stabilizer. Thing drives VERY well. Oh and bearings. My near bonestock M05 needed even less parts to get it going nicely (just the stiffer MR diff, and dampers/springs only, no bearings either); will try the zip tie over factory servo saver later today.
For some perspective on this, check out Ivans first post in this thread.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/3191698-post3775.html
I've just spend the last few weeks reading all 1770+ pages in this thread. I read it slightly out of order. I first read about Ivans bone-stock challenge, but when I started the thread from the beginning and found his first post I had to double-take on who was actually posting.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/3191698-post3775.html
I've just spend the last few weeks reading all 1770+ pages in this thread. I read it slightly out of order. I first read about Ivans bone-stock challenge, but when I started the thread from the beginning and found his first post I had to double-take on who was actually posting.

I use to think aluminum upgrades are the bomb but then you have to realize if you make one part stiffer, when you hit things, there is more stress on the plastic parts which may cause more breakage there. If it's all around softer, there's more give! Still the M05 steering rack is a must if you still hit a lot of things cause I keep seeing it break where the bearing seats so good investment. Thanks Gigaplex!
There use to be a very informative site rcmini.net from guys in your neck of the woods. It's no longer up but some members have downloaded the info. I think Monkeyracing might have. Lots of info but one is the funniest things I've read was an April fools post about all these mini secrets. Sounded voodoo and could possibly make you go faster but it was all a joke. See if you can get a look at that site!
Yeah, at the end I too only needed the few things you mentioned (stiffer diff, damper set with blue and red springs, better servo saver) along with a solid servo mount and the 1 degree toe-in rear uprights on my M03. My M03's rear tended to slip out often during off-throttle turn-in, so the rear uprights greatly stabilized that. 
Other then that I have the extra weights up front in the bumper and the front stabilizer. Thing drives VERY well. Oh and bearings. My near bonestock M05 needed even less parts to get it going nicely (just the stiffer MR diff, and dampers/springs only, no bearings either); will try the zip tie over factory servo saver later today.

Other then that I have the extra weights up front in the bumper and the front stabilizer. Thing drives VERY well. Oh and bearings. My near bonestock M05 needed even less parts to get it going nicely (just the stiffer MR diff, and dampers/springs only, no bearings either); will try the zip tie over factory servo saver later today.
Another tip I've found especially helpful in mini that was coined by HPRT is something along the lines of plant the rear and then work on front steering. For carpet situations (that's what I race on) I found the back end is usually very stable. Getting steering is the key in mini. Sometime instead of overly thinking about getting the most front steering (softer springs, no sway bar, more toe out, front weights in bumper, etc), why not reduce rear grip to get the same effect if you've exhausted all the things you can do to the front like (hard rear springs (white ones!), sway bar, less toe in, Kit tires, etc.).
Fun start to the day!
Ivan
The players at Tamiya Raceway often make the holes larger in the provided 3-hole teflon pistons to lessen dampening using soft springs. This affects "pack" (usually an off-road term) more than just going to lighter weight oil. Unlikely a situation exists where 2-hole would help handling.
My dos centavos...
My dos centavos...
The players at Tamiya Raceway often make the holes larger in the provided 3-hole teflon pistons to lessen dampening using soft springs. This affects "pack" (usually an off-road term) more than just going to lighter weight oil. Unlikely a situation exists where 2-hole would help handling.
My dos centavos...
My dos centavos...
That's the reason I am going for the two hole piston getting the (Pack)
for the rear shock..
Brought the new Mini 05 ver2 almost two years ago..getting to rumble with you guy
There use to be a very informative site rcmini.net from guys in your neck of the woods. It's no longer up but some members have downloaded the info. I think Monkeyracing might have. Lots of info but one is the funniest things I've read was an April fools post about all these mini secrets. Sounded voodoo and could possibly make you go faster but it was all a joke. See if you can get a look at that site!
Yeah, there's a bump in the middle of the M05's factory servo saver spring so the zip tie slips off. I lol'ed at pictures I saw online of people super gluing their M05 servo saver together.
If it slips upwards (towards the horn) then it might still be somewhat effective if tightened appropriately. You definitely don't want it slipping the other way.



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