When you guys have 15/20k in any diff, are you filling them up completely?

(fluid about 1-2mm down from top, with all gears installed)

Thanks

Im just curious about preferences..

While 1/8th scale vehicles are very tough, and can handle a wide range of abuse, they also have enough weight and leverage (on the arms) to either bend a hinge pin or break a suspension arm (or hinge pin holder); especially a heavier, wider truggy. Tekno and Losi are known for their strong plastics. Therefore, arms don't break at the expense of possibly bending a hinge pin. Whereas Kyosho, Mugen and Associated tend to break arms or hinge pin holders instead.

If you're a racer, you can finish a race with a bent hinge pin. That's a little more challenging with a broken suspension arm or hinge pin holder.

I've read where some have purchased 4mm drill blank material in order to achieve a stronger hinge pin. I have yet to hear whether that did in fact solve the problem of bending the hinge pins in a big crash. I also haven't heard if a stronger hinge pin now moves the force to a weaker link. In other words, did they trade straight hinge pins for broken suspension arms or hinge pin holders.

Please let us know what you find out when you make your own hinge pins.

For those of you using a Hudy setup system for your ET48, do you have to use the truggy measure plate or can you use the buggy? Thanks

You have to get the truggy

While I haven't done this, the most likely place for that force to go when it can't bend the hinge pin are the hinge pin inserts. So I would expect those to be even more mangled in a bad crash of that type, or to have the arm split more where the hinge pin goes through it.

I am not sure, but I think the hinge pins of my other cars have got bent less in the past. It could be easily be solved, either by using better steel, or they just use some spring steel, which is more flexible. I will cut some spring steel into pieces to get that solved. I dont't think that due to better steel the arms will break...

I remember that someone advised to use hinge pins of a brand I can't remember, as they have better steel.
An other improvement would be to use inserts made of rubber, instead of plastic.
My LRP/ZCar Pro Truggy had rubber-inserts, which have lasted for ages.

@WonTonsChicken: you should be fine with filling the diff as advised in the manual. I have heard that the Silicone Oil expands when it gets hot, so you have to leave a "gap". Others say to fill it up completely, but I never did that (just almost full).

I'm using drill blanks and they do hold up better.

Are most running buggy or truggy motors in the et48.3? If buggy motors, is 1900kv enough or should I go with a 2100kv? Kinda looking at the REDS motors unless I go with a truggy motor.

I'm running a 1900 buggy motor and it's a beast. The motor comes off at 140 degrees after 20 minutes. If I were buying another motor for this truck, I would look into a 1700 motor.

Hey guys part from tekno and snows desgins body's what other body's have you try on this truggy

You can really fit any body you like on there, but if you go with something other than the ones you specified, there is going to be a gap between the chassis, and mud guards. Therefore creating a possiblility for the parachute affect. But, if you have a descent grasp on in air flight, then you should be fine with any body.

The ProLine Enforcer body has been popular with a few people I know..

is there a upgrade kit to get the et48 truggy to make it the et48.3 truggy

FierceRCsolutions.com sells it.

Not from Tekno, but there are some shops bundling the parts together to do so.

Buggy motors work fine. I would recommend 1900kv or lower. The 2100 is a little too much for truggy and could have heat issues.