Originally Posted by jstump

Thanks the guy I spoke too said he did it that way to teach his young son how to drive the ebuggy. Thanks for your response I will go with a 4s lipo then.

Originally Posted by jstump

Question, I just bought a eb48.2 my first 1/8 ebuggy. I have the Reedy 2000kv motor in it and want to run 2s lipo with it, what gearing and suggested setup would i run on loose dirt track?

Originally Posted by gwhall

INTRODUCTION

This is a nice thread. Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking about getting this kit to build a nice basher with monster truck tires. I own 2 RTR 1/8 scale RC's, but I think it would be a lot more fun to build one from the ground up. I don't have time to race and the nearest track is 3 hours away. But anyway if anyone has time to read this and answer my questions I would greatly appreciate it. I'm kind of a noob at building one from the ground up so some of these questions may seem dumb to you veterans but thanks for the help.


BUILD PARAMETERS, BUDGET, ETC.

--I already have five (5) 4-S Lipos so I'm keeping the build 4s. Also less breakage on 4s.

--Looking for a lot of torque and top speed of 40 mph.

--Looking for a good solid 4s basher setup.

--Budget is around $1000 dollars (kit, electronics, & radio).

--Using monster truck tires.

--Building with new stuff not used unless it is in very good condition used

--Stuff needs to fit or be easily made to fit into the ET48.3 kit. I'm looking up dimensions online so they may not be exact.

--Must be waterproof (splash proof as possible not submersible)

--Just looking for nice 4s basher build doesn't need to be race tuned

--Must do wheelies

--I might get 1 - 6s battery and try it out for fun later



MY THEORY BUILD WITH COSTS SHIPPED

1.) Tekno RC 1/8 ET48.3 Competition Truggy Kit TKR5602 - $570

2.) Hobbywing EZRUN MAX8-V3 Brushless Esc (59.3mm x 48mm x 36.8mm) + Program Card - $130

3.) Hobbywing - Ezrun 4274sl 2200kv Black Sensorless Motor (42mm O.D. x 74mm L) - $84

4.) Airtronics MX-V 3CH 2.4GHZ FH2 Pistol Radio & RX (36.2mm x 26.5mm x 16.3mm) - $100

5.) Solar D772 Servo (23 spline???) (41.3mm L x 21.2mm W x 40mm H) - $20

6.) Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 Tires - $55

7.) Tekno R/C TKR5251 Aluminum Servo Horn 23T Spline - $14

8.) T-bone racing 57007 - TBR 1/8 NM Front Bumper - $20

9.) Tekno RC Pinion Gear 15T M5(MOD1/5mm Bore/M5 Set Scrw) TKR4175 - $12

10.) 1 Can of 3 oz. Tamiya Spray RC Car Paint for Lexan Bodies - $10


MY DUMB NOOB QUESTIONS

1.) Will the MT4 G3 MT Tires fit without rubbing the sides of anything or would I need extensions? What extensions if needed?

2.) Are the wheel hexes on the stock kit 17mm?

3.) Will the motor and esc fit?

4.) Will the Airtonics RX fit in the stock receiver box?

5.) If I put airtronics RX's in my other RC's can I bind the airtronics radio to multiple cars so I can control all of my cars with one radio?

6.) What do I need to buy so I can have rechargable batteries in the airtronics radio? Is there a charger cord so I can keep NiMH batteries in the radio?

7.) Can you waterproof (splash proof) the stock receiver box? How? I know the airtronics RX is waterproof but I would feel better if the box was because of the exposed servo wires being plugged into the RX.

8.) Is the 44/15 gear ratio ok? Will it overheat the engine with MT tires? I usually lite bash with about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. I don't hit top speed for long periods of time. Suggestions on a better gear setup?

9.) Hobby wing has a quicrun 4074 2000kv motor would this be better?

10.) Can I run through a whole 4s - 6500 mah pack without worrying about motor temps if I bash around at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle?

11.) If I wanted to throw a 6s in this thing on occasion would I have to worry about temperatures? I know it isn't set up efficiently for 6s but would it be ok?

12.) Does anyone know if the Solar 772D servor is 23 spline? I know this isn't the best servo but I have had a lot of luck with it's durability. And I can by 5 of them for the price of a Hitec. So hopefully 5 will outlast a hitec?

13.) Will this setup do wheelies?

14.) Would 500k oil in the center diff, 100k front, 30k rear be a good setup?

15.) Would 50 wt shock oil in all shocks be ok?

16.) Estimate on how long I can run on a 4s-6500 mah lipo running 1/3 to 1/2 throttle? I'd like to get over 20 minutes if possible.

17.) Can anyone compare this build to a Thunder Tiger MT4 G3. Would it be a lot more durable? Would it be more fun to drive? Worth an extra $500 bucks? Is there a lot of parts support in the US?

18.) Any additional comments, tips, or suggestions?


MY SKILL LEVEL

I've pretty much had both my RTR's torn apart and rebuilt including the diffs and shocks. I can do basic soldering (deans connectors, bullet connectors, 10awg to 26 awg wires) - no tedious small integrated circuit soldering (12v LED light strips are the smallest thing I have soldered). I have access to a hand held drill, dremel, jigsaw, plyers, wrenches, and screw drivers. I don't have a drill press, band saw, table saw, or CNC machine. So I can't do detailed work with metal cutting and fabrication.


CONCLUSION

Thanks a lot for reading my post and thanks for any helpful answers to my questions and any additional suggestions. Sorry if some of these things have been asked before.

Originally Posted by stanson

I compared my ET48.3 with friends' MBX6 truggy last weekend and on the same tyres his car seemed way more planted to the ground while exiting the corners. Some quick tips on the setup would be helpful to calm down the rear on the throttle. Built with the stock setup. Outdoor clay track.

Originally Posted by suzukipro

Curious how many others run a Hitec HS7955TG servo in their ET48. I have run them in all my Tekno vehicles (4), but chipped a servo gear tooth after one race day in my ET. Just wondering if it was bad luck or if I should consider something else for Truggy duty?

Thanks,

Originally Posted by stanson

I compared my ET48.3 with friends' MBX6 truggy last weekend and on the same tyres his car seemed way more planted to the ground while exiting the corners. Some quick tips on the setup would be helpful to calm down the rear on the throttle. Built with the stock setup. Outdoor clay track.

Originally Posted by justpoet

That should™ work, but especially in truggy, bigger is better for torque. It not only holds better, but moves the giant gyro wheels much easier and doesn't have as likely a chance of an issue when you come down in a cartwheel with such side force. I generally suggest 300+ for buggy and 400+ for truggy (and have the PT170s .07/549oz in mine). HV servos make hitting those numbers much more feasible these days.

Originally Posted by justpoet

I also like the rear locked down more (and turn on brake instead of throttle, so like it to turn in harder). Here's where I'm at with the ET48.3 now after Motorama and only simple changes from stock box setup. For me it made it much easier to drive and gave me a base I can work from and tweak to make things better.

Note: The wheels are off it and I measure droop as another ride height, so droop and ride height are missing here. I think I raised the front 1 and dropped the rear 1mm from stock. I'll try to remember to fill out the rest and any changes after I run it this weekend.

Originally Posted by Tampagoalie

Thanks Justpoet. Was wondering about motor temps with that 17 tooth pinion. I'm running the same motor but with the Hobbywing XR8 Plus speedo. 16 tooth can get a little warm after 10 -12 minutes (165ish degrees). What are your temps like? Think maybe I'm over geared?