I suppose if those were Tamiya fanboys, I would've expected them to use the CC01 diff lock piece instead of bunching up bevels on one side generating unbalanced vibrations..

And Tamiya... come on now, do a double-deck CF TRF m-chassis! Enough with these plasticatry
(okay making up words now)

+1

So I worked on the TOP SabreFD gear diff tonight (also fits M05/M06) and found that the revised clear o-rings (PP-GDRS02) for the TOP's S4 actually fits in the outdrive sides of the gear diff housing. TOP mentioned they don't fit and was working on a fix.

ANYWAY, since they do fit, I added one shim on the leaking side, new clear revised o-rings, and GreenSlime on both sides. I only had time to do one run, but no leaks.

Dont you already have a ta05m four? LoL

I do and it's a great little car. but I was hoping a 540 size motor standard.

There are enough companies doing mini TCs already, and quite cheaply, too. No need for Tamiya to jump in.

Shaft driven ones I don't really care for unless the motor is placed horizontally to the chassis like the belt-drives. I'm not sure if such chassis is available for cheap.

Tamiya should jump in to finish the M-Four this time with a 540 motor and add a few more pieces to provide turnbuckle adjustments such as front camber, and droop, etc to make it a TRF trim. It's cool the way it is, but can do more with a few more adjustments.

And not think selling a RWD Miata body on a FF platform is okay. I expect more from a Japanese company.

BTW, for those that don't know, the front camber on the M-Four is a solid plastic rod, comes with 2 lengths in the kit.

oh, should mention make sure that you completely remove and dry the diff' fluid before using the green slime/extra shim method. The green slime needs to be on dry surface housing to prevent diff fluid to penetrate ...but maybe that was already obvious? ...I say this out of experience ...had to do it 2x the first time I tried this as I didn't dry and clean everything properly.

No worries, eR1c. It's not the first time I'm doing gear diffs. Been using Greenslime for a while. Thanks though.

+1

Ah, right Sakadachi!
Well maybe it will help someone else reading this post ?

Wait, what? Someone else reads this thread? I had no idea! .

Good advice on making sure the diff halves are dry first.

That MX5 looks so good, although I doubt it will be the hot ticket body, at least on carpet. The bodies that seem to do the best are the hot hatches. Civic / Blitz Jazz / GTI etc all have a windscreen further forward, to put more weight higher over the nose to get the FWD tires to work harder. I tried to get the old HPI Miata body to work on a FWD, but I was consistently quicker with a Civic body, no matter the suspension changes.

If I decide to make life harder and run a M06 again, the new MX5 will be what Ill run

eR1c -

axle- I'm sure you already do, but have you tried putting weights inside your front bumper? I do this often on the FWD's... Even stack more on top of the bumper as needed to get the extra grip.

Yep started doing that many years ago, but i have gone away from it. I could notice a different feel in reaction of the car when its changing direction, when the weight is outside the wheelbase. I still have that bumper, and use it on some occasions but its a last resort when I have a bad set of front tires.