I've heard those are alright. Big price gap between their $31 and $69 versions! The power hungry thing reminds me of Bluebird servos. Those things are swines!

There's always something with these cheapo parts, huh? I didn't know those servo's required so much current.

And I checked this morning on ebay if one could still buy the S6070 for $50 shipped. Nope. I guess I got lucky with my spare one.

The BEC of our spec ESC's are only 2 amps. I have used the PowerHD servos with other ESC's with higher BEC, and there was no problem.

For comparison, i have thrown a low profile Savox into my mini, and it too needed a glitch buster.

Which Savox are you using? Because I run the SC1252MG on my M03 using a cheepo kit ESC (TBLE02S) and some Vulcan 21.5T without a glitch buster. No issue. My receiver is a Futaba R614FS.

I think this has been asked before, but I can not locate the suggested fix.

While racing on carpet, I have an issue with the rear end of my M05 braking loose at the end of the straightaway going into a right hand turn sweeper. Would reducing the droop improve handling? Or would spring, oil, camber etc... correct this issue?

Rear -

S grip tires
Blue springs
50wt oil
Yellow roll bar
-3° camber
1.5° toe in

Front

S grips
Yellow spring
40wt oil
-2.5° camber
.5° toe out

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

I'd probably look at bits to increase off-throttle understeer as it sounds like you have too much weight transfer while off throttle. Which includes stiffening up the front springs and damp setting, raise the ride height on the front a tad, or lower the rear a little bit. If you are allowed to change tires, try different compounds front/rear.

And/or try different sauce patterns if you are using tire compound.. like keep sauce off the outer treads on the front, but apply more on the rear, etc.

A tad more steering expo can help too to stabilize the initial turn-in steering input.

Hey cheapskate - I finally got around to swapping out the pistons in the 54000's that came with my M-Four with the same cheapo black 3 hole pistons I run in my V2's 54000. The car runs so much better now. Using the Tamiya yellow damper oil too so there is minimal damping with the yellow and red springs, but the car is light and runs so smoothly and predictably by damping all the high frequency bumps. Perfect!

It has been 3 years since trying a 1251mg Savox servo. My issues with it were:

- current draw. In comparison to a futaba s9551 paired with the ORCA Sparc esc in our canadian mini's, it draws more current that is significant enough to require a glitchbuster. Some got away without it, which leads me to believe that it pushed the threshold of the BEC, and as a result, the reciever used may have been enough to make a difference. But for those of us who race, a dip in voltage/current can happen in a split second and become the knife in the heart that will cost a race. Operating with safety measures in place prevents issues before they occur. Many racers decided to run glitch busters. I however, took it one step further and disowned the savox completely.

- price point. For half the price, (bought mine for $21.99 on rcmart) the PowerHD 1207TG is faster. If a glitchbuster is going to be run regardless, then the PowerHD is the better bang for the buck. On the other end of the spectrum, if one spends $25 more, they can bypass the Savox 1251mg and get the Futaba s9551. When the cost and dead weight of a glitchbuster is added to the equation, the $85 futaba servo looks like a much better option than the savox.

-the look and feel. Im an aesthetic kinda guy when it comes to RC. Having an ugly orange servo in my mini just pisses me off. The anodized red of the PowerHD didnt go too well with all the blue on my mini either. For that reason, the Futabas 9551 and its all-black-look won out.

And thanks for the feedback!

I also found the futaba servos to be "smoother". Thats probably subjective though.

Futaba s9551 servos are VERY nice, but they sure ain't cheap. Wish I could buy more!

Biggest change you can make is tyres. Harder compound on the front if allowed. Also, glue the sidewalls to take away some of the bite. I would also run the stiffer settings on the front compared to the rear, and make sure you have a little more droop on the rear than on the front. I also run 3 deg rear toe in now as it makes the car more planted. Diff setting makes a big difference too, a stiffer diff (within limits) is going to make the car less sensitive on turn-in.

The other thing is driving. You need to be smooth on the steering and throttle inputs. A mini won't appreciate the hard inputs that a 4wd touring car can deal with.

I've discussed servos many times. I always use Futaba because they perform well, last a long time and are reliable. My oldest 9550 is over 8 years old now and still going strong. Makes you question how much you are really saving by buying a Savox or PowerHD that is going to give you hassle.

Futaba states that the S9551 "FEATURES: Digitally enhanced microprocessor cuts about half of the response time from transmitter input to servo reaction"

Half of the response time from what, an analog servo?

I run my 4PKS-R and R614FS or R614FF-E on all my m-chassis... would I be able to feel a difference between my S6070 and SC1252MG if I got a S9551? really?

BTW, I run S9452's on my V2 and M05. I honestly can't say they are any better than my S6070's or SC1252MG?

If you're in an actual race and you're a contender, probably. I'm a crap racer and I can tell a good servo from a really good servo.

That could be, if they are talking about the acceptable frame rate, which is normally much higher for a digital servo than an analog servo.

Or they could be talking about servo latency-- after all, the servo's microprocessor needs to measure the incoming pulse from the receiver, do some math, then drive the motor appropriately. That all takes time!