Yeah the cheap clear shocks are way beetter and smoother. The piston hole size is much more optimized too if you ask me (the alum ones are waaaay too small and don't move as fast as i want), plus the threaded shocks has its ring adjusters move every now and then. Anyway here's another sample I did for my buddy




Here's a close up to what I did to relocate the servo

Saw it initially where the owner used a strong double tape to secure the servo. Results were terrible. I just used the concept of having the servo on the side but mechanically secured (instead of just an adhesive tape)

Yeah I only have one LiPo for my mini and charge it right after heats hahahaha can't care too much. Anyways I run mod touring and mini during races

To get good balance try placing a 2mm (or more) shims between the heatsink/counterweight and the chassis. It works for me

Who makes the carbon fiber bracket you used to mount the servo?

http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4021

Good job, looks good. Yeah, I just worry the Lipo *might* catch fire and always remove from the chassis before charging.

Right on about the pistons.

I thought I was the only one who believed in the plastic shocks. I've got 4 race prep sets of them (new chassis owners get rid of them immediately) and swapping out shocks is much much much faster than rebuilding them with different shock weights

Yeah I took the risk of charging your lipo in the car into account, anyway I've been peaking my lipos at 8.8v (normal LiPo, not Hv) and after 5 mins 5.8 ratio 3300kv limit, there's still 8.3v left in them.

TO get good speed on the straights, try to look into gaining some forward traction by playing with camber and droop before calling out someone a cheater (which I commonly get hahaha). But yeah, I love to share any hacks I have in hand.

Pushing the technical limits on a mini is really really addictive

Damn! I chucked out some of those suspension stiffeners a while back. So terrible for their intended use! Charging your lipos to 8.8? In or out of the car, that's silly.

Regarding the M03, i think it's the lightest among all the generations. Was running a 320g 7600mah lipo and it's at 1115g ready to run! Putting in an oil diff was challenging. I had to cut off the composite part to expose the 5mm outdrie shaft and install 5x11 bearings over them before sliding it into the diff case. Sample as below






The whole mini racing is mate hahahahaha! I just love to push the limits and curious to see what happens. THings are fine so far and yeah every mini race I attend i've been cycling the same lipo until the finals. I only overcharge the lipos during races

Looks like your rules are even slacker than ours! Interesting. Ever seen this other way of fitting a gear diff? http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model...21229&id=34024

OMG I wish I had a lathe! That's awesome!! I wanna do that! THis year our minimum is at 1250g. TITC retains their's at 1100g!!

Black CVA's are fine. The clear ones.....yeah well one half decent hit and they will shatter....

i.e.

Tony ok, I do agree that the clear housing is brittle. My worry was exactly that which resulted in me getting the 54000. The pistons though are garbage on the 54000. I do like the height adjustability though.

Thanks Fred, which wheelbase is that body?

It's not that I 'believe' in plastic shocks , I just didn't see the benefit going to the 54000 with those crappy pistons until I swapped them out with the cheapo black pistons. Now it works very well, just like the CVA's but with the benefit of having the infinite height adjustment. I use the black CVA's on a couple of my cars and they work great. I just didn't think it was necessary to swap out the clear ones unless you had problems with them (like it cracked or something).

Osherman also mentioned that he did exactly that, swapping the pistons with the black ones on the 54000, previous to getting the big-bore dampers so that kind of sealed the deal for me.

Also, great work on the M03. I also agree that the droop is a very critical part of getting stability especially coming out of the corners fast. I usually just give max droop though as I don't like the boomerang like effect when the inner tire leaves the ground and the car rotates unnaturally.

Hi all,

I need new o-rings for my 3racing gear diff, but the replacement parts from 3racing are out of stock everywhere. Can anyone recommend an alternative o-ring?

Ryan