If it's going to be like the old mx5 Miata, then it will be medium wheelbase... Let's hope so coz the shorter the wheelbase, the better the m06 handles... On carpet

I want to thank everyone for the tips and suggestions, ca was perfect no traction rolling and I felt comfortable pushing the car harder and was able to tq. I still need to tighten the diff as the eventual winner pulled on me hard in the midfield and despite my best efforts I had to settle for 2nd.

It's an M05 chassis .

Good job!
Just remember the ca trick has to be done either after every run depending on how your track is of after a couple of runs other wise you'll start t/r all over again!
Be careful on tightening the diff too. Don't make it too tight otherwise you'll break that screw that keeps everything together
Keep us informed of your progress!

Good job Gravity!!

Is this on Asphalt? I'm pretty sure your talking Carpet, and if you are - don't do this. Only reapply the CA when it starts to disappear. You want the ca to be a thin height on the tread, you start reapplying and you have higher edge to the tire.

What you need to do is clean the CA. The CA can get a build up of track goop, and start to grip again. If you clean it with motor spray, or tire sauce, it will perform like new CA. This is the time to also check the condition of the CA. Any CA missing, add more. If its cracked, no problem, its fine. But if there is a spot with missing CA, redo this part only.

Not my experience, but I suppose different conditions will pose different problems. I just add more CA if the car starts to want to roll, or as part of my routine at a big race meeting (usually before the finals). No doubt in my mind that CA on the sidewalls is one of the biggest changes/improvements you can make to carpet handling.

I know it is... I'm just saying that coz I'd like to buy the shell for my M06 (no shell regulation for running Tamiya races with the M06, whereas M05 drivers can only use certain high roofed shells). Wink!

To answer a previous query though, I think it's prolly a medium wheelbase... says so on the tamiyaUSA website:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radi...zda-mx-5-58624

Alexander

The original eunos roadster body was short wheelbase, i believe.

I have heard that this will not fit an M06. Looking at the back, there doesnt appear to be much trunk space, which is needed to fit on an M06.

I suppose if it is short wheel base I could run it on my M-Four... I'm not fond of RWD cars driven by its front wheels.

come on, Tamiya.

Original was mid wheelbase.

This (the new Mazda roadster) is a medium wheelbase body. I'd always thought the old one was LWB, as the few I saw were cut to run the extra 15mm. Thought that was normal.

Decided to try something different this coming indoor carpet season. I wanted to see if it is it possible to have a competitive mini with the least amount of upgrades / hop-ups possible.

So I rebuilt my first mini: M03M. There's no aluminum hopups, no CVDs, no TRF shocks, stock gear diff, friction dampers and swift body.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=58368

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcm...8swift1600.pdf

So everything is rebuilt according to the manual except the following. Only new part is the 2 chassis halves. Everything else is original. Race ready at 1240 grams.

1. Extra washer on both sides in the stock gear diff and the 3 screws tighten as much and as evenly as possible. Added a hole in the chassis (thanks Monkeyracing) for future tightening.

2. Removed the rubber tubings inside the friction dampers. Yes, there is no dampening. Because the stock silver springs are so long (I can't get ride height low) and I didn't have the tools to cut them down, I ended up using short blue (hard) springs in the rear and short red (soft) springs in the front. I used those little horseshoe spacers to get the ride height around 5mm but a little lower in the front.

3. S Grip tires with the hard inserts front and rear with a bead of CA only in the outer front corner of the front tires. Didn't glue the sidewalls.

I ran the car twice at 2 different local clubs recently and also got to run it against 2 very good drivers at both clubs too. Unfortunately they both used their "B" cars. One a M03 and the other M05v1. Both race days my car were on par with both of them and in fact I think it looked amazing. Even the gear diff held up fine and stayed somewhat tight.

Compared to the M03 I've raced regularly for the last 5 years, the only weaknesses on this M03M I would say are:

- does not track exactly straight on the straightway.
- lack of high speed steering but really good in the slower technical parts of the track
- hard braking the rear slides to the right
- apparently lots of body roll reported by many at trackside which I can't see on the drivers stand.

I have 1 more club race before a big series race the weekend after to see how it really works. Based on the last 2 club races, I would say it's a top 10 car even if I used this car the last few years. I just need to solve a few little problems to make if a top 3 car.

I'm planning to try a few different things for the next club race:

- reinstall the shorten stock silver springs on all 4 corners
- take away the rear damper spacer inside both rear dampers which I think increases rear droop so more weight transfer forward off power and more grip to turn in the high speed corners
- maybe more toe out (originally eyeballed I'm guessing 1 degree out)
- maybe test the kit tires (tires are harder) in the rear so the car rotates better into the corner.

Wish I knew this 6-7 years ago that you actually don't need to spend much to make a mini "competitive".

Ivan

It should be noted that Ivan has won races with the tread literally flapping off his tires.

M03's are fun. I like mine a lot.