Larger shock body, cap, piston. Same spring retainer, O-rings, rubber bits, springs and shafts. The big bore shocks contain about 10% more oil.

They only come with 3 hole pistons - it looks like they finally realized that it is easier to change oil weights than to rebuild the shock to change damping profiles.

Race-ready my M05-V2 is 1200g on the nose. That extra 100g is noticeable.

Thanks, hprt. Yeah, sounds like they did realize that the piston on the 54000 is very particular and difficult to tune. Good to hear Tamiya offers larger 3 hole pistons for the bigbores. That sounds like it's heading in the right direction.

Thought the TCS minimum for m-chassis was 1300g. oh well. I'm over 100g+ then vs your V2 with the Peak Lipo's.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs/tcs.php?article-id=531

We don't have a TCS series up here anymore - the series I run in Western Canada is WCICS, and min weight for Mini is 1200g.

http://www.wcics.ca/

Lighter/heavier weight is only a detriment if two vehicles are identical in every aspect. If someone took my current mini which weighs 1250g, and swapped my peak 4200 for a much lighter pack, the settings would be totally out of whack.

A completely stock planetary gear actually oversteers, as the differential is "differentialing" too much. The planetary gears absorb the kinetic energy of the car and slow down the rotation of the car during this left to right energy transfer, which is why a car with a front diff is usually easier to drive. Due to the law of diminishing returns, a diff will eventually "diff out". This is when the outside tire balloons, as all the kinetic energy has been transferred to that one side. The inside wheel will not lift because your car "diffs out". It lifts because the suspension has not been properly setup (too soft, too stiff, too much droop, not enough droop, etc). In fact, if the inside wheel lifts up, it should have less resistance and therefore balloon up.

The key is for the diff to be stiff enough to keep power on the wheels moving forward through turns, but have just enough give to absorb a little energy. Laps times increase, and tire wear will decrease as a result. For this reason, i chucked the spool last year and went with a "Chuck diff" - which is kinda like a "Scott diff", but with pink Sakura screws.

Simply speaking, you want the limited slip differential action. Of course the inner wheel is not lifting due to the open diff (no one said that), it is lifting as a result of chassis sway as I already mentioned. It is natural for open diffs to transfer the energy to the looser traction wheel/tire.

Oil diff/monkeyracing diff will help prevent the energy from being wasted on the looser inner wheel during the turn and propel the car through the turn using the outer wheel with traction which is desired.

Result: You get much better rotation and much less energy wasted through mid-turn to exit.

Traction rolling usually happens during corner entry into mid-turn. That is an entirely different discussion where KA2 already mentioned some tips on reducing traction or just slowing down in general.

I'm done with this topic. Any other questions, Gravity?

I think you will find that as you increase the lockup on the front diff, you take away front cornering grip and the car will tend towards understeer for all phases of the corner; entry, apex and exit. This means less rotation the tighter the diff.
Where the lockup diff really pays off is drive out of the corners, which more than makes up for any loss of grip on entry and at corner midpoint.

If you want to get totally bonkers, throw in a one way diff. Totally locked on throttle, totally open off throttle. Zero brakes! The off throttle cornering is stunning, but get back into it too soon and the car straightlines like crazy. Lots of fun, but terrible for winning races.

This made me laugh. A few of us actually tried this as a joke on a HPI long time ago. Took off the rear belt and all since converted FWD. It was a disaster but was funny as hell.

Why are you posting this on all the electric forums?

He (or some bot that's taken over) has posted this in dozens of unrelated forums.

And now it's gone... Thank you, Gods of RCTech!

Do Sweep tires and inserts fit the Tamiya Rover Mini wheels?

I want to try these tires on my track. I've had good luck with 25 degrees on my MiniZ's.

http://www.sweepracingusa.com/Minis_c_11.html

To stop front tire lift, run blue rear springs.... To stop diffing out use ofna diff lock lube/sanding diff plates....

Pull back 15yrs..

I still have a lot of these batteries that work.. decided to run them on my Cup.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...racer-nicd.jpg

Still works fine.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...33337-nicd.jpg

Finally did it!
I got #2 spot in the Mini A-Mains!

I ran a #1 and #2 spot in qualifying rounds and ended #2 in the Mains.
I actually was in the #1 for the entire race but our best driver caught me in the last 10sec's of the race and took #1 from me.

It's taken 2 years of tweaking my car and practice to achieve this. Finally! I thought the top spots were unattainable, not any more.

Two things I did from the previous race that helped me a ton,
1) put a stronger fan near my motor (which kept my motor temps at 135ish and thus my car ran strong the ENTIRE race)
2) Switched my rear hubs from 3degree to 1.5degree (which definitely gave me more speed on the straights).

okay, wanted to share this as its been all of your help that has got me here. (thanks)!