What do you mean by killing them? Are you using any bump steer washers? Mine get a little bent, but they seem to last until they get sloppy.

They bend then they snap. I've gone thru 3 in a short period of time. I do have all alum on steering tho.

I noticed when I built my buggy that the steering rod ends touched the aluminum caster blocks at full lock. so I shaved a little material off of the caster block. Perhaps they are getting hung up causing them to break?

Could be. I don't see much of a groove on the steering rod ends though. I don't know. I'm going to try the others. Probably would be much of an issue if I could just buy the ends making it easier to replace every couple weeks.

Hey guys I am looking at getting a 811be off a guy cheap I wanted to know what will I need to convert to the new model

In order to upgrade to the 2.0 rear end it will be about $140 (for the conversion kit). Now to get the 2.1 parts it will be about another $100 I think. Honestly the 2.0 is a very capable car, and while I never owned a 2.0, it seems like the 2.1 is only a little better in some areas. The differences between the 2.0 and the 2.1 are the front castor blocks, rear drive shafts (longer) and the rear hubs.

Anybody else have a problem with the lower front arm rubbing on the wheel webbing? If so, what is the solution?

yeah this happens and there is no fix for it unless you turn your EPA down on your radio. Mine rub on the steering links, on the front of the arms, inside of the arms where yours do, and on the steering blocks. Also wheels like the avid and DE wheels have a much smaller webbing compared to proline and AKA. I did notice a lot less rubbing with them but it is still not eliminated.

I guess I noticed the rubbing when the epa is turned up, but I never thought it was the wheel rubbing. Looking at the webbing in my wheels though I realize now how it got destroyed. I try to turn my epa down so that the wheel does not rub at full lock. I always felt like it would make the buggy do weird things in the corner.

I've had this buggy for 3 years. Can't believe I'm just noticing that. Thought about increasing the hex offset. Don't know which is worst, increasing the track width or backing down on my endpoints.

The serpent wheels have the most clearance, Avid second and proline third for what I have tried. You can trim the back of the arm a little and it helps. AKA is the worst for clearance. I would just let it rub, I have been running the car for 5 years and made it hit and not hit and I honestly cant tell a difference. Its very rare you will use full lock on any track.

Thanks. Yeah, I had an AKA wheel on when I noticed this. I really just started running them this year. I didn't notice any adverse effects while on the track 2nite. It was a pretty good rub on the bench which is why I got concerned. I might actually try trimming the arms or just run as is.

I'm trying to get a little bump steer out during compression. Has any on successfully done this? Mine still bumps in on compression, out on full droop.

With car on the table looking at the front of the car, note the arm angle and the camberlink angle in relation to each other. What you want to do is make the steering rod angle in between the arm angle and camberlink angle. So basically if the arm is level and so is the camberlink the tie rod should be the same. If the arm is level and the camber link tips down toward the center of the car at a 10 degree angle (just using 10 deg as a number) the tie rod should be at a 5 degree angle. This will give you 0 bump steer.

How are the Serpent rims? I need to buy some more rims soon and was thinking about trying them after hearing they have the most clearance.