Why would the 54000 dampers not work? They're the standard mini damper and have been for ages.

So what's this motor exactly and how did you crack the chassis???

P.s....those little rocks are the devil

Granpa said 2mm too short on the housing. Mine works fine.

Mine is on the V2.

The 54000's are a bit short, bit they work well for me. My ride height on a prepped racing track is about 4-5mm, so I am not looking for much height or travel length from the shocks.
I have seen people use longer plastic joint arms (can't think of what the proper name is) to get a bit extra length from the 54000's.

Not sure. Didn't hit anything really hard. Things got very crunchy in the gearbox a few times and I had occasional problems on the bench with the wheels locking completely. I'd guess it was a combination of the weak spot in the chassis mixed with loads of different stresses. It's cracked almost out to the lower motor screw!

Hi Guys

One of my shocks has started leaking out the bottom. What's the best way to fix it?

These are the shocks I have.
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84318-works-damper-mchassis-p-36034.html

This is on your M05 I take it? Could you send me a pic and some info on the motor...10.5T I beleive you said? Just curious about the point where it breaks because I have smashed the living hell outta this thing lol. Gotta check out the damage and prepare a proper future for my one and only baby right now lol....make sure she doesn't shat the bed prematurely before I expand the rc family

Hi Tony,

Thank you for the response. Sorry I haven't checked this thread in a while and didn't see your post earlier.

Yeah I looked and saw their main site was down and figured they may have been out of business.

Its good to know about the quality of their kits though. I just liked the materials used and layout of the conversion kits for both a rear wheel drive and front wheel drive. I was hoping someone had a connection in Japan that may be able to source an old kit collecting dust.

I've been itching to build a mini that is somewhat based on Tamiya M05 & M06 and that is why I was hunting for the Tech Racing conversions. I would purchase the original Tamiya models but their chassis just have a lot of plastic for my taste.

But thank you again, I appreciate the response.

Chuck

in Leo's mini is a trackstar 10.5t with minimum timing.in mine 13.5t with full timing.nice racing with you Jim.
Mike(blue mini cooper)

I recommend you swap out the clear o-rings with the blue Tamiya TRF X-rings. As soon as my 54000's start to leak, I'm going to swap them out.

I already swapped out the ones on my M-Four. No more leaks.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-no-leaks.html

Just get A-part tree spares. I have two V2 chassis sitting in my parts bin.


Actually I have more than enough droop on my 54000's on my V2. There is plenty of stroke. I am not sure why it might not work on other chassis. I believe these came out when the M03's were still kind of new. Instructions even tell to use those black o-rings inside to limit the extended travel for M03's. Since our V2's have droop screws, I did not install the spacers inside like how i did with the factory clear CVA's. Kind of felt it defeats the purpose of the droop set screws.

shocks are not to short.it's the oil vol.

You as well, Mike. Great fun today. I ended up at about 40* timing. It was probably a bit much. The motor is a Reedy Sonic with a torque rotor. Weirdest thing was it wasn't any hotter than my Orca. It was about 145f after each heat. I've never destroyed tires so quickly! No tread left and the inserts came unglued and bunched up. Fun!

It has the x-rings in it already. Maybe they just need replacing.

Maybe upgrade to the clear kit shocks

Simon