I love my M-Four.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...593-m-four.jpg
Check out my albums page for the batteries I use.

Also, if you can find an old CupRacer, the 210mm is quite nice.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...527-cr-fan.jpg

Both run the Tamiya Rover Mini bodies on mine, and considerably faster than the FWD's I have running my small track.

That's correct. The M-Four runs a 380 sized motor and smaller batteries, although I've seen people convert it to run 540 size and shorties.

But as you said, the Sabre4WD Mini is already running the 540 and similar to the M-Four's design, AND uses the standard 2S Lipo's.

This is why I bought the SabreFD Mini this time.

Anyone getting the new Suzuki Jimny JB23 MX-01F this month?

The only issue I ever found with the m04 was its incredibly sensitivity to diff smoothness. If a flea farted on your diff gears, the car might suddenly change directions. I guess it also suffered from instability when bumped, like all other rwd cars.

On a related note, since our rules state that battery must fit chassis without modification to chassis or pack, I've been hunting for a smaller, shorter battery that will fit into the m04 chassis. No luck so far. They always fall short on capacity or discharge rating.

Thought discharge rating was only a myth?

I put a 2820 2S Lipo (2200mAh) in my SabreFD Mini yesterday for kicks and got 10min driving easily out of silver can, still had 3.83v remaining.

Edit....

Anyways, ya the only person I saw who could really work a M04 was Rod Littau, but that was way before mini has some serious following. From memory he had great results with Type A slicks all round. Its a switchy little beast when driven on the raged edge. Ivan txted me after he read my post regarding the M06, saying I should race my 06 again. I actually sold both of them, as they are too tempting to race, yet frustrate me when I cant keep it in the setup window. But they are a tonne of fun in practice

Remember, a rear-wheel-drive car can pull much more current than a front-wheel-drive car, since weight transfer will aid its acceleration.

Hi howard! Yes, which leads me back to my question no one answered.

While driving my 4WD chassis (M-Four) there is inconsistency in the torque (punch) while using a 25C 2S lipo vs my higher discharge rate Lipo 40-80C where the torque is consistent.

Is this due to just cheaper batteries (25C) or.. In my head, I still think higher discharge rate is preferred even though the value may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer like tire treadwear on real car tires.

Problem with M06 is being 100 grams heavier. If same weight as M05...

I liked that, meant I didn't need to add as much lol. Its definitely different, asphalt handling vs carpet, a lot of grip and BL power to rip out of the corners. The extra weight made the car feel better for me.

Plus, don't you guys ADD weight to the rear axle for more grip?

Actually, as rccartips said, it already had a lot more weight over the back wheels. So that was never a problem. The problem was keeping your steering. with a rwd, you always want to stick the rear, but it was so hard to stick the rear, and keep your steering. We ended up placing a lot of lead in the front of the batt compartment and over the nose. You gave up so much time waiting on the car to rotate, the FWD would speed away. Or vice versa, you had too much steering, not enough back traction, and spun out when getting aggressive.

I see, tricky little sucker they are! I guess which makes them fun to drive.

My M04, not so much fun to drive..

Weren't you running an 03 at around 1500g once? Or was that the 06?

My 05, ready to race, is barely heavy enough. 03 is the same. Hollow front bumpers are a good tuning aid. You can fill them with lead shot and wax.

Anyway, about the 06 swine. The day I learned it had more screws in the rear bulkhead than an entire 03, was when I decided it was a silly thing.

I can only venture a guess, which is that the greater voltage drop due to the presumably higher resistance of the cheaper pack is causing the ESC to glitch. You could experiment by leaving the ESC switch off and using a receiver battery to see if that fixes the problem.

Certainly a 4WD can pull more current than a FWD, since it has so much traction.

While there is no standard way of establishing a "C" rating for a LiPo (or even its internal resistance, which is related), I can't think of any instance where a higher C rating would be detrimental to operation... so overkill may be a good idea.

Thanks howard! I will try the receiver alternate power trick to see if it changes anything. And yes, I agree that overkill is always good as long as there is no side effect (ie extra weight, etc).