Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Regular
Does anyone have trouble with the Tamiya Mini Cooper Racing body not sitting square on the M05 chassis. I find that one of the rear wheel arches always rub, no matter how I mount it on the chassis. I've got a feeling its caused by the the leads coming out of the battery pushing the body to one side.
Any tips or tricks to make it sit right?
Any tips or tricks to make it sit right?
Does anyone have trouble with the Tamiya Mini Cooper Racing body not sitting square on the M05 chassis. I find that one of the rear wheel arches always rub, no matter how I mount it on the chassis. I've got a feeling its caused by the the leads coming out of the battery pushing the body to one side.
Any tips or tricks to make it sit right?
Any tips or tricks to make it sit right?
If your battery leads still bulges the body, try shifting the battery towards the right side of the chassis by adding 3 or 5mm spacers to the battery holder end pieces (You will need to use longer screws).
BTW, as you all already know, I am very picky about scratches on the body. I place clear vinyl tape on the inside of the body where the leads and battery mount pieces might rub the body to prevent paint removal.
Last edited by sakadachi; 07-20-2015 at 04:58 AM.
Tech Elite
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Tech Elite
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Ive been saying this for years, and I race on Carpet. Even with silvercans, the minis would handle the corners much better with a little weight. My 03 has a line of lead in the middle where the chassis halves joined.
Tech Elite
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Actually, I apologize for the M06 comment. Some of the best guys I know have worked on that chassis and have never made it competitive. We've bench raced that car a lot and the consensus is that it is a better carpet car than asphalt. I tend to, whenever I see one, make the sign of the cross and walk away as rapidly as possible. Danny Eggar, our current TCS Mini Champ, is playing with his. If anyone can figure out how to make it go, he can. He's making some progress, but the car is tough to get balanced for all the corners
Hope this was more informative.
Hope this was more informative.
The M06, when in the sweet spot, is quicker than the fwds for sure.
Yeah the M06 isn't worth the headache on carpet IMHO. I loved working on it, as its a nig challenge. the FWD cars can be driven hard and put away wet. The M06 requires finesse, and a very very good setup. The issue I always found was the setup window, to get everything from the RWD, was so slim, and small change in track condition, tire wear, and good hit from Ivan, put you right back to square one, trying to figure what to change. So while it was challenging and very rewarding when you get it right, it wasn't worth it in the long run for me. With the FWD I could concentrate on racing and battling with the guys, the M06, I was constantly thinking chassis tweaks, to try to keep the chassis in the sweet spot. And that was when I went to the races with a large box of tires, three sets of shocks etc.....
The M06, when in the sweet spot, is quicker than the fwds for sure.
The M06, when in the sweet spot, is quicker than the fwds for sure.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
I have no racing experience with my M06 (not allowed here) but I would say you're not far from truth. However, I would place the accent elsewhere. I think the M06, like many of Tamiya's forays into left field is needlessly overcomplicated and ultimately disfunctional. Which is too bad, because Tamiya had the recipe right the first time around, when they made the M02 (incidentally, my first ever kit). That is a lot easier to set up and tune, and much easier to drive, almost as easy as the FWD cars. Perhaps that alongside the Goose (which I also have) should have provided the template for a RWD platform but with the motor in front of the rear wheels rather than hanging out the back. 1/12 pan cars are another source of inspiration that proves RWD can work very well on road. Maybe Tamiya will take another shot at it sometime.
For me, the downfall when running it on the edge, was the braking and corner entry. You needed the perfect amount of brake to get the corner entry, and this was so hard to find consistently. Adjust your line, and the car would swap ends. This didn't make it good for close racing IMHO. If you going to attempt a pass, you cant leave the fastest clean racing line, for fear the car will swap ends under braking, or loose the front on a dirty racing line. Now this is all due to the RWD, I don't feel its due to a design fault. But you really can lay down a quick lap every now and then. Get the braking right, and its a monster on carpet
Perhaps that alongside the Goose (which I also have) should have provided the template for a RWD platform but with the motor in front of the rear wheels rather than hanging out the back. 1/12 pan cars are another source of inspiration that proves RWD can work very well on road. Maybe Tamiya will take another shot at it sometime.
Tech Master
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I agree Axle, I love my M06R, it works great on the carpet track here in Omaha. I never even have to touch the setup. It works far better than my M03 that I converted to rear wheel drive.
I agree Axle, I love my M06R, it works great on the carpet track here in Omaha. I never even have to touch the setup. It works far better than my M03 that I converted to rear wheel drive.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8...f051e85b_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8246/8...f051e85b_c.jpg
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I know others have complained about the M06 design, but I don't see it myself. I'm sure there are ways to simplify the design, but for the most part, having the motor behind the back axle, actually made for a decent handling car. The M04 was like driving the M06, but it had a mind of its own. Even when your within the perfect setup window, it can still step out, over rotate, or just plain go crazy on a whim. The M06 was well behaved in this regard. The issue I had with it came when trying for consistent super quick laptimes. There is one guy up here who can win consistently with the M06, but he also wins easily in Stock and Mod touring. Hes a damn robot.
For me, the downfall when running it on the edge, was the braking and corner entry. You needed the perfect amount of brake to get the corner entry, and this was so hard to find consistently. Adjust your line, and the car would swap ends. This didn't make it good for close racing IMHO. If you going to attempt a pass, you cant leave the fastest clean racing line, for fear the car will swap ends under braking, or loose the front on a dirty racing line. Now this is all due to the RWD, I don't feel its due to a design fault. But you really can lay down a quick lap every now and then. Get the braking right, and its a monster on carpet
For me, the downfall when running it on the edge, was the braking and corner entry. You needed the perfect amount of brake to get the corner entry, and this was so hard to find consistently. Adjust your line, and the car would swap ends. This didn't make it good for close racing IMHO. If you going to attempt a pass, you cant leave the fastest clean racing line, for fear the car will swap ends under braking, or loose the front on a dirty racing line. Now this is all due to the RWD, I don't feel its due to a design fault. But you really can lay down a quick lap every now and then. Get the braking right, and its a monster on carpet
M04 is too long.
Try an M02 and you'll see what I am talking about.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
I want a 4wd Mini. I've had the TT01 conversion, the Xpress and the ABC aswell but have sold them. The only one I can see available now is the Tamiya M-Four and noticed some talking about it here. Is it any good and could I use it against FWD ones ?
Don't get the Tamiya M-four, it was not really designed around normal 1/10 brushless motors and batteries. Get the Top Sabre 4wd mini instead.