For me, I use toe-out mostly to stabilize tracking. These M03's and M05's (with the exception of the V2 behaving better than the others) have a hard time tracking straight while going on/off throttle for me unless I give them ample toe-out.

I don't know which chassis we're talking about, but the M03 and M05 both have fast turn-in in factory form as long as the tires are gripping. I would practice the off-throttle timing on top of the tips Granpa posted about softening the front suspension and lowering the front ride height, giving more rake. If you are using stiff diff setting and under steering, then you will need to find even grippier tires for the front, put some traction compound on the outer treads. May cause traction roll.

Try and stick with the Tamiya and stay away from the Fast Racing ( Im not sure if that's the proper name) but they are supposedly a higher gear ratio to give more speed, but they seem to be made of inferior plastic and turn to mush fast

RW Racing in england make a machined fast gearset for the mini. It is machined delrin like the TC spurs he makes.

But wouldn't the machined metal eventually wear on the plastic body and cause wear that will cause the body to be replaced? And wouldn't metal with no oil to lubricate and cool cause overheating which would cause the metal to soften and strip easier??

The number one killer of M chassis gears is the crappy stock aluminum pinion Tamiya supplies with kits. Those things go all shark toothed in a hurry and destroy the spur gear. Get a Robinson Racing or a Kawada pinion, or even Tamiya's own hardened version. They're cheap and you'll replace far fewer gears. I'm running the same, stock, white gears I did last season and expect they'll last another.

Here's the key to M chassis pinions: The pitch of the gears is 0.6 mod, .6 module, or some variation on that. They are not 48P, no matter what the dude at the hobby shop says. Robinson Racing sometimes uses the term "48P metric" but it's inaccurate.

Really? I go through Tamiya pinions pretty fast, but it's the small idler gear that goes first with the pinions. Spur looks pretty decent even though it meshes with the pinion.

I tried the RobinsonRacing one and it's noisy + whining noise. I'd like to try the Tamiya's hardened one next, if I can locate one. I haven't tried the Kawada.

The Robinsons are noisy (STEEL!). The Kawadas (duralumin) are the quietest I've tried and last forever.

Sometimes, you have to read the question, before you give an answer. He said that he had a bad push using the PS 456 & 452 combination. I'd used that combination quite a bit and never had a really bad push with it so knew that it could be "cured" or improved with some chassis adjustments. Also, you had to know that the chassis was an M05 cause he said his shocks were in the outer hole of the shock tower. The M03 does not have a shock tower.

But as I hit the submit reply button, I knew there were things I may have forgotten cause my wife had distracted me several times during my reply. One you mentioned and that is if the diff is too tight, the car will push. The second thing was if his shocks were built with a high rebound, the car would also push as that would inhibit weight transfer.

Also, as I mentioned in my reply, the effect of altering the toe out's not a settled question and opinions vary. But I, personally, have found toe out adjustments as one of the most important things available to us.

Yes. In additon, practice driving is also important. Letting off throttle alone provides more weight to the front giving bite.

They are machined Delrin, not metal.

Thanks, I shall give the Kawada's a try!

And delrin is.......???

Hey guys...just thinking can u guys post some tool tips or pics and sets of what u guys have being veterans at this. I only have the t bar that came with the m05 and a few Phillips. .pliers and cutters..and now a 2.5 mm because I had to replace the hardware for the control arms. What else is a must?!?!

A strong engineering plastic. Go look at some high end spur gears for touring cars. They are usually made of Delrin.

In situations where you don't have a dedicated "car" area, I think the most important thing to have is a small tool box, so you can put things away, out of sight of the wife, and out of the little kiddies inquiring hands. The best way to really get in trouble is to have one of the kids wandering around with a sharp x-acto.

The next thing is a shelf or shelf unit that you can put up high enough to be "out of the way". As far as the tools themselves a good philips that fits the Japanese philips heads. and a pair of needle nose pliers. A small soldering iron. Then just add stuff as you use them. If you want to know what sets of wrenches etc, I wouldn't know cause my stuff is just a hodge podge of different stuff, some of it the best money can buy and some of it from Harbor Tools or Home depot.