Originally Posted by rcdave905

Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.

Originally Posted by louie8269

I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?

Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.

If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.

Originally Posted by louie8269

I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?

Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.

If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.

Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi

It's not the arm it may be the upper part of the rear carrier, you could dremel some of that off but I wouldn't want to risk weakening it.

Originally Posted by Aswild

My rear tire rims bub on the bubs on the in side by the hex,seem like i need to space it out a bit

Originally Posted by qstorm777

I always have to look this up in the Hudy guide. According to the Hudy guide:

Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track

More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks

Originally Posted by Lowe's48

You are correct sir.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.

Originally Posted by Everybody79x

I'm having nose down jumping issues. Running stock setup with emulsion shocks. Any recommendations? (besides moving the battery back)

Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi

hmmm hex area I don't have that problem but if I did I might try these or the 1mm ones

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.

Originally Posted by louie8269

Ok, so there are two people telling me different things.

Can anyone clarify or confirm?

ETA: I checked the rear suspension and everything is moving freely.

Originally Posted by Everybody79x

I'm having nose down jumping issues. Running stock setup with emulsion shocks. Any recommendations? (besides moving the battery back)

Originally Posted by louie8269

I didn't have any issues with the end being loose when braking. Only upon acceleration. Both in a straight line and coming out of a turn.

Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi

What center diff fluid are you using? Loose track or high bite? Could be the rear has too much drive compared to the front.

Originally Posted by louie8269

I'm using 10k in the center diff. My diff fluids are 10/10/7 currently. I thought about that as well but wasn't sure if a more 'locked down' center diff would actually cause the rear to be loose. The outdoor tracks I run on are considered medium bite.