Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
|
|||
#871
Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
#872
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
#873
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.
If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
#874
#875
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
#876
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
I always have to look this up in the Hudy guide. According to the Hudy guide:
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
Less anti-squat (flatter arm)
• Increases rear traction off-power
• Decreases rear traction on-power
• Better on a bumpy track
More anti-squat (leaning more backwards)
• Increases rear traction during acceleration
• Decreases rear traction off-power
• Better on smooth high grip tracks
You are correct sir.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
if you are having loose rear issues you must first re exam your upper ,lower shock mounts and hinge pin holders. Be sure they are not too tight . Lots of people make this mistake and no matter what you change it will never be good if the suspensions are bound up and can't do their job! Yes..sometimes its that simple.
Can anyone clarify or confirm?
ETA: I checked the rear suspension and everything is moving freely.
#878
#879
hmmm hex area I don't have that problem but if I did I might try these or the 1mm ones
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
i'm running the Alu clamping hexes off my SCT410 not sure if that might be the difference compared to the stock steel ones if that's what you have on.
#881
#882
#884
On my 2nd time out with the .3 I broke the front-rear hinge pin brace. (Front and Rear outer hinge pin brace's are metal). I also bent the hinge pin as well. I'm not really sure what I hit to cause this. This is the same track/layout I had been running the V1 for many months with 0 issues. I guess it's time to upgrade the inner hinge pins now also. Had to leave before the races start . I left my V1 at home so could not swap parts over.
#885
I would try lowering the center diff weight to allow the front to pull a little more. All depends on driving style but 10/10/7 might be a little high all the way around for anything except high bite stuff.