you will want one on this vehicle. seems to be common to snap the plastic ones.

It is possible to run some of the cheaper horns you just have to raise the mounting mount on the steering arm to compensate. Or if you don't want to do that, just buy the appropriate tekno or similar servo horn.

Im trying a set of 2hole x 2mm pistons next time out with 35 x 27.5

My plastic one stripped after 3 track days. I don't know anyone that didn't strip theirs or just replace it with aluminum right away.

4wd SC is a pretty big load on the servo. You'll need an aluminum horn at some point. For some it's right away, others a few weeks. It's a good investment since it is a liability to finishing races.

Does anyone know if you need to sand the servo saver to get it to seat properly similar to the ET48?

I do not have a truggy--but I did not do any sanding on my servo saver. Make sure the posts seat into the slots on the chassis b4 screwing them in & you should be fine.

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to trying out the new geometry.

Well i got mine on the 7th from A-main lat one ,so i have been putting together
Slowly never put a rc together an dont want to jack it up ,i all ready almost strip the front diff ,due to my integy hex starting to round ,orderd MIP so i started on the shocks ,but the inst. in the book p.18-19 is not very good for some one who never put them together ,they have a pic in top corner it to me looks like that all goes in the end of shock tower ,so i need some schooling ,
So i got
XP DS1313 HP servo,hope it will work
MX-V airtronics RX/TX
Graupner GM-Genius Turbo 120R/GM Race SC55 4.5T Combo
J concepts body with wing , not yet order
Side air flap
Tekno 15 t pinion
AKA wishbone 2Wide super soft SC tires
Well i cant wait till get it set up i read all 50 pages very good info ,so informative and also input from key players in TEKNO
If u could help with the shock assymble that would help out so much?

Get a good 2.0mm and 2.5mm driver so you can chuck it into a cordless drill. I use a hudy set but I am sure the mip ones are good to. Just go slow and don't bottom the screw out with the drill. Always hand finish threads.

What exactly on the shocks are you having issues assembling? It took me awhile when I first starting running the Tekno cars to find the best way (at least, in my opinion) to build them

I hopefully will have a video up in about a week with my methods for completely rebuilding as well as just refilling shocks.

Lol. Thanks carter but after eating an then returning to the build i figured it out i guess i had hungry brain.thanks but i look forward to the videos,

Have definitely done that before Just let us know if you need help with anything else!

So if I install the aluminium wheel hexes (TKR5571A) what wheels will fit the truck, SCTE ones?

Okay almost done build. What a smooth easy build.
Okay first let me say I have built many many cars and trucks, but want to verify what to do before I drill shock caps.
Per the instructions to build vented bladder shocks it says to drill 2 holes in each cap.
First hole is where the threads are to allow oil to bleed out when tightening the cap, but no mention of where to drill second hole.
If it is where bleeder screw where hole is drilled to do emulsion style, after build do you put screw into this hole?
I prefer bladder style shocks and want to build it this way, just a little confused.

Yup, its the bleeder screw hole.