Just break out the calliper and measure the two diffs. That should illuminate either way.

Leaving screws loose is just a half arsed band aid that will shift the problem elsewhere.

It is also possible that the plastic allows the screws to bite deeper and pinch the chassis tighter with use. However, this is just conjecture until you measure the diffs (and perhaps chase other gremlins as well).

Niz kind of makes a point with the plastic
Over time could you just have been tightening them to a point so tight that
they just bit into the plastic and now your just at the point where when you tighten
them tight it binds everything up?


Did I say that right???

The more I hear this, the closer I get to updating!

I was hesitant to make the switch, as I've gone so far with getting my M05 just right. And to switch during the season made me nervous. Would hate to have a bad race day due to this.

BUT, I feel the change was an improvement. I feel that the car is just planted better. I feel more confident to really drive it. I used to feel that there was this imaginary edge that I couldn't get too close to otherwise it would flip or spin out. No more.

This was on a less grippy track, so going to see how it performs on a track w/ a lot of grip.

The diff isn't the problem. As mentioned, it's got side to side play. Getting an accurate assessment from measuring might be a dead end, as the stock diff uses bearings and adapters that might alter available space. We're talking small fractions of mm here. I used a 0.3mm Teflon shim behind the diff and made a 0.3mm shim for the top screw.

It's a weird thing, but it's working for now. Just for the sake of thoroughness, next time the car is apart, I'll pull the blue spacer off the diff to see if it changes anything.

Wouldn't that leave a gap though for more dust to get into your drive train?
I suppose you can tape the halves with e-tape to close.

I should check this screw torque too. After my recent M05 rebuild, I did notice the gearbox to be quite audible vs when new. Perhaps mine is binding the gears too, a little bit.

Sounds great, eR1c! Especially on lower grip track the V2 handles very well. No more of the rear stepping out like the M05, huh?

However, with my recent brushless motor update? (upgrade?), my V2 has been a tad stubborn to drive as the torque is so immediate vs silver can. I got the trigger down pretty much though, reading your guys' posts about not using any brake while driving. I changed my driving style a little bit and seems to work better with the brushless setup.

I'm all about trying experiments so please keep us posted how this goes. Imho these m-chassis aren't very precisely molded so your approach of adding a little play might be better.

+1 !!! -it's glued to the track!

Yeah, that was the first thing I noticed when I drove my M05 (I had my V2 first). I was like woah, major rear kick-out like a drift car.

I run my M05 like a grand touring car though, enjoying the nice Rover bodies I have for it while going around my track. So no issue with stepping out at the speed I am going.

V2, I push the car pretty hard so the car needs to be planted. Otherwise..CRASH!

That's the point. You need to measure the diff as it goes in ready to race, adaptors and all.

First picture of MF-01X, courtesy of Tamiyablog. Looks like a fun mini-scaler.

I see a stick pack and something similar to an m05 bumper sticking out from under that nice looking shell.

What's with Tamiya and brightly coloured plastic steering knuckles on the off-roaders.

Thanks sosidge!! . So kind of like a mini version of my CC01.

(Which I hardly drive )

http://www.thercracer.com/2015/04/58...mny-first.html

Looks to be a new chassis, fits square packs and has M05 v2 arms

I'm seeing old style 2 piece lower arms, 05 body body posts/front bumper, CVA dampers (without springs) and M03 style battery holders.. Looks like overall CG is higher with the taller gearbox. Could be fun.

Yes, I think for someone that wants to drive something around the house that could be fun. I am sure there will be RTR variant as well.

Problem with my CC01 is that it doesn't look right driving fast (so I run a 55turn) yet it can't really crawl like my CR01. Nor do I really care for crawling as I found out.

So I end up not driving them at all.. I have a feeling the same will happen if I bought this Jimny. I was hoping for a more rally race car type theme.. something 4WD, short wheel base, and fast.