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Old 05-01-2015, 07:25 AM
  #23521  
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So after a week's trial I removed the Sonic from my V2 and placed the Mabuchi silver can back. Much better for my purpose.

I am getting some thin rubber flooring material to cover the track. Will see how that goes to improve traction. I was thinking about going Ozite but since the track will take up about half the basement space, I decided to try the rugged rubber flooring first.

I am going to run the Sonic in my GF01 (truck). I can use the extra punch.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:07 AM
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Weird. It's been two days and there hasn't been any news or smartass commentary.
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Old 05-03-2015, 04:29 AM
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Hey Its a Weekend
Everyone is entitled to a weekend off here and there
Give it some time Monk!
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Old 05-03-2015, 06:55 AM
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Hi guys

Hoping someone can do me out. I am running an m05 and the rear end seems to want to skip across carpet when going around any sort of corner. I have 35WToil in the front and rear and the Tamiya soft springs in the rear and medium in the front. I have tried hard in the front and medium in rear and the skipping won't go away. I am running the Tamiya 54000 shocks. Anyone got any tips that might help me out
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by leeism View Post
Hi guys

Hoping someone can do me out. I am running an m05 and the rear end seems to want to skip across carpet when going around any sort of corner. I have 35WToil in the front and rear and the Tamiya soft springs in the rear and medium in the front. I have tried hard in the front and medium in rear and the skipping won't go away. I am running the Tamiya 54000 shocks. Anyone got any tips that might help me out
Thanks

Lee
The standard M05 is notorious for this. There are a # of things that will help. Use a rear roll bar. Add a 1mm spacer to widen the rear track. Use softer springs. the standard Tamiya Mini springs are much too stiff. Try the #53333 spring set and use the yellow in front and the blues in back. If you insist on using the standard Tamiya Mini springs, nothing will help.

Also, play with the amount of rear camber and the ride height. Sometimes just adding or subtracting can make a huge difference. Setting the front and rear at different ride heights can be helpful at times. The amount of toe out can affect the driving qualities of the car also. My usual routine on hitting the track is to work with ride height, toe, and rear camber.

There are other things, but you didn't mention them. The tires are the biggest things for setting a car up. Also, for the shocks, There is a difference in the shock oils from various companies. The 35 weight from one company might be the 50 weight from another. How you built the shocks will have an influence. The amount of rebound and the overall shock length is important. I'll often use different length shocks front and rear, but hardly ever use shocks with any rebound.

One of best things I ever did for my M05 was to purchase the option front and rear shock towers, especially the rear. Of course that required some changes in shock length when fitting the rear one. It requires a bit of experimentation to get it right.

Yeah, most people want the answer to be, just change the XXXX and your problem will disappear like magic. Sorry, but it just doesn't work that way. It takes a bit of work which explains why you see so many bad handling M05's out there. The M05, out of the box, is pure garbage. With a few option parts and a lot of hard work, it can be made into a really good car, albeit with a nasty disposition, most of the time.
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:35 AM
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I forgot to add the value of your transmitter adjustments. Most people run too much travel and the M05 especially could use a little less. Of course, this depends on the track. Use enough to make it around your tightest corner. Any more will just get you into trouble and make your front end dig in and cause the rear to step out.

Most people run the servo speed to high. I use ultra fast servos, but usually dial some of the speed out. These fast servos are usually the better servos and have better centering. Ultra fast servo's speed is not the reason for using them. The superior centering is.

Which gets us to expo. Use it. For many, you're not a real "man" if you use expo. It's a point of "pride" for some as, for some reason, using expo makes you less "manly". It's like pain pills. If you have pain, it makes sense to take the damned pain pill. Like," I'm in tremendous pain, but I'll learn to live with it". That's not "manly", that's idiotic. The reason for using expo is so that you can run less toe, which will give you more turning power.

I forgot. Dial in the amount of expo first then adjust the amount of travel. These two things work together and often it seems as if the expo on some TX's is just a travel adjustment. I'm not that knowledgeable on the electronics of how this stuff works.

Last edited by Granpa; 05-03-2015 at 08:48 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV View Post
Hey Its a Weekend
Everyone is entitled to a weekend off here and there
Give it some time Monk!
True. Took my trail truck out back in the dirt patch and beat it up for a solid hour yesterday. The tires are a little worn, so it was extra challenging. After that, I took my 2wd buggy onto the street, as I've never actually seen how fast it will go unimpeded. The answer: FAST.

Time to stick some better tires on the truck and head back out now.
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:57 AM
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I agree with Granpa on using a fast servo (at least 0.11/60 degrees 6v) Dual Rate on the steering and Expo for M05. The thing is notorious for stepping out during turn-ins and also 'skipping' as leeism stated on high traction especially while tires are brand new.

I'm using stiff damper setting on the front with yellow springs, red springs in the rear with a softer damp setting, 1mm spacers on the rear Rover Mini wheels.

Also how you let off the throttle does affect the way the rear behaves. You can solve most of the M05 issues by converting to the V2 chassis though..

And most of the V2 problems can be solved going M-Four. haha
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:15 AM
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Make sure you are running a little bit of rear droop. Skipping is usually because the outside rear tyre is the only one on the ground so when it loses traction it jumps out. Increasing the droop will keep the inside rear wheel on the ground for longer and everything will be a lot smoother.
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:23 AM
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I should add that I have become a big fan of the new aluminium 1 degree suspension mount #54542 - it won't directly help with the rear end hopping but it does seem to give the rear end the perfect amount of stability (combined with kit 2 degree hubs)
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Old 05-03-2015, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
I should add that I have become a big fan of the new aluminium 1 degree suspension mount #54542 - it won't directly help with the rear end hopping but it does seem to give the rear end the perfect amount of stability (combined with kit 2 degree hubs)
Part # ???????
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Old 05-03-2015, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Part # ???????
https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radi...us-mount-54542
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:07 PM
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Thanks guys

I am waiting on a stabiliser to put on the rear and will have a look at the camber on the rear. I am running the Shimizu treaded tyres with the hard on the front and medium on the rear.

I have used a Spektrum H6040 previously and have now swapped to a BLS551 servo recently.

I am running 1.5mm toe on the front.

Where abouts would I put the 1mm spacer to widen the rear?

With the hobbwing 13t 35A combo what settings do you all run? Timing, drag brake etc
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by leeism View Post
Where abouts would I put the 1mm spacer to widen the rear?

With the hobbwing 13t 35A combo what settings do you all run? Timing, drag brake etc
The spacer goes between the backside of the wheel and the hex. Or, you can try a wider hex.

I don't believe there is any timing on the Hobbywing sensorless systems. One of our locals did some testing and found no difference from zero to cranked. I suppose it's theoretically possible, though. I'm guessing Howard Cano knows.
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
The spacer goes between the backside of the wheel and the hex. Or, you can try a wider hex.

I don't believe there is any timing on the Hobbywing sensorless systems. One of our locals did some testing and found no difference from zero to cranked. I suppose it's theoretically possible, though. I'm guessing Howard Cano knows.
Might have to try the wider hex and the spacer!
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