Thanks for the info, i know revers on most full size cars is straight cut and can be noisy at times. Hopefully the hyper 7 diffs dont require re-shimming after the first time.

Got the diffs in and took it for a test on 6s. Diffs held awesome but man this thing is just about uncontrollable on 6s lol. I can't get over half throttle. Around 40mph it gets too out of controller on the trenchers. Also when I brake it pulls to either side, is that from stock servos most likely? Lastly was ramping the curb on my driveway and landed on the nose and snapped the rpm bumper in half! Lol so time for another one.

Dont bother with the RPM bumper. Get a Tbone Racing bumper and never worry about it ever again. They make the best, with a lifetime guarantee.

My flm maxx is the same on 6s, barely driveable. Anything over half throttle it does wheelies. Im going to put in the center diff gear to try and help with that issue.

I think 6s is just to much, I bash around on 4s with some good lipos, its more than enough power and fun. The 6s power takes away from the fun from the handling.

Different strokes for different folks. I myself like lots of power, my old FLM (hybrid bulks) Maxx was a Castle 1520 on 6s. But my throttle finger has plenty of training with high power setups in 1/8 buggies and the lower 1600kv helps tame it a bit too. 6s with a 2200kv is a lot snappier than the lower kv. I personally like 5s for a 2200kv for that extra pep without getting too nutty.

Your Trenchers aren't really the cause of the truck getting uncontrollable at 40+mph. Pretty much any MT tire at those speeds is ballooning which makes handling kinda squirrelly. 6s is a lot of power and needs thicker diff fluid. On the throttle with 6s, tires ballooning causing less traction, a diff unloading at this point will not help you control the truck.

I know you said you were changing diff fluids but I can't remember what weight you went with. I'd try 50k front and rear though. Taping the inside of the tires to prevent ballooning also helps. I run taped 40 series (6.89" tall) Trenchers on my LST XXL geared for over 50mph and it's nice and stable. Haven't even gotten around to balancing them yet either.

i ended up with 30k in both because i forgot to pick up 50k at the lhs. I may swap that out here soon. My erbe was much more stable at high speeds. What do you guys think the pulling to one side when on the brakes hard is? I also like to live dangerously overdriven, 6s is fun. It being really sketchy makes it that much more fun lol. 4s is plenty but im oe of those guys that likes wayyyyy more power than you really need.

Believe me I love having excess power too. There's nothing like pitching the truck into a turn and powering out sideways with a big rooster tail of dirt. That's why my LST has a 1717 on 6s.

This pulling to one side on the brakes, is it at any speed or it mostly from higher speeds? The tire ballooning hurts traction and makes it easy for the diff to unload when accelerating and also when braking. I used to run an ERevo that was 1520 6s powered with Losi Claw tires that weren't taped. They'd balloon like crazy with lots of sidewall flex, talk about squirrely, sketchy handling. Stab the brakes or throttle at speed and it would dart left or right even if it was pointed straight. If it wasn't pointed straight and you stabbed the throttle or brake it would get crossed up like a motorcycle doing a tank slapper, all because of the tires. After that I vowed to never run tires that tall without being taped.

Its mainly at speeds higher than probably 30mph. i had badlands on my revo on 6s so they didnt balloon near as bad. I may pick up some o rings to put around the outside of the trenchers to stop ballooning.

You have an update? Have you ran the truck at all yet bud? I personally haven't had time but itch for it everyday lol.

I'd try to find some buggy shocks that are the same length and diameter. They're generally strong and have rubber boots to protect from debris.

i ran it last weekend on 6s to test the new diffs and everything went smoothly except for breaking toe front t bone bumper. I want to get it out this weekend but its been freezing here (its -3 here right now). Saturday is going to be in the 30s so ill probably do another run on 4s then and really test how well it jumps.

Hey guys,

I broke the stock chassis on me EMBE yesterday! Looking to upgrade to the FLM extended chassis. I was looking at ordering the chassis but didn't know if I need anything else for install. I currently have the following installed and want to make sure everything will mount up correctly...

ACNCM Bulks Front and Rear
Stock diffs
MIP Splined CVD's front and rear
Stock center drive

Any thoughts or recommendations? Anything I will absolutely need for install?

Also...anyone recommend a place to order the chassis. I found it on rc-monster.com but am not familiar with them.

Everything will hook up just like a normal chassis. Make sure you have threadlocker for the install, and a good assortment of new screws.

You are the first person Ive heard of breaking a tbone bumper. Must have been the cold.

Luckily they have the best warranty in RC and will just send you another one.

Cool. Any thoughts on where to order? I looked on Fastlane's website but I don't see any way to purchase it.