Just started my build of the ET48 today. This thing has been awesome so far. Looking forward to finishing it later this week.

Page 247

I only have 95 pages

Got tired of the 10 post per page

Dayyyyuuum! Haven't got my kit yet.Didnt realize the manual was that many pages

My body is beat up after a few track visits, it is old though. I've got a new body on the way and I've been thinking about some different methods to keep it together for longer. Anyone else have any photos or ideas of their body preserving modifications?

Well darn, you already are using the gorilla tape method haha, thats what I had to resort to with my old body.
The body is very thin, and the rear has a ton of flex, seems like ruining a body is bound to happen.

I'll assume you saw the discussion a page back about those rear mounting holes. That will help a lot.

My original body is torn across the bottom of the front window, starting from the top rear of the fender, pretty similar to that. Some extra shoe goo and tape in those areas is all I know to really try.

And I plan to crash less this season.

-Chris

I would say shoe goo and lots of drywall tape in the front area, and make the rear body post holes elongated to account for the flex front to back, and maybe a tad wider for side to side but nothing insane.

I think doing that will help protect the body.

You could also see about gluing some lexan under neath too to strengthen the area.

I got a brand new body I am not painting because of this issue till I see more on how this body I have that is the beater holds up with more driving.

I had mine crack completely in half at the base of the windshield during an event, had to get creative with the zip ties to hold it together for the next heat.

yeah definitely need a thicker pull I am thinking. Its a truggy after all, saving weight on the body I doubt is making that much of a difference.

Ok so here's my plan.

1. Elongate rear body holes
2. Use scrap lexan to make little square tabs and put them where the body holes are
3. Use velcro on the sides instead of body pins
4. Use gorilla tape all over the front area and other weak areas (want to try this instead of shoe goo and drywall tape)

1. I don't use the body holes at all. They are not even reamed at all in my bodies.
2. I shaved the body posts and added velcro on the shaved tops.
3. Used small pieces of scrap lexan with shoe gooe to reinforce areas were shock tower meets the body during a crash.
4. Used velcro on the sides of chassis/body
5. Used gorilla tape all over the front area and back areas

My body looks new (so far), but I barely crash with my truggy.
I have had some nasty crashes with my buggy though and body reinforced this wasy has held pretty good.

Could you put up some pictures if you get a chance? I'd appreciate it. In the process of the build now and normally I have all my bodies custom painted but I'm a little reluctant with this one with all the talks of this body being very weak.

guys,
I am in need of a worn out truggy chassis. I plan on making the
replacement chassis and need a pattern to go by.
any one having one that is worn out and would like to get the first prototype
to test from me let me know.
mitch

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our hinge pin support system.
These blocks are made with7075 Aircraft aluminum. The captured tapered hinge pins are made with 01 Tool steel for maximium strength.

these pins are designed to rotate in the bushings to allow a freerer motion of the suspension. With this design will still work even if you bend a hinge

pin.
it will most likely bend in the smallest area of the pin. this area is not in the bushing or the arm so it will continue to operate and not bind

the suspension. the bushings are made with delrin material and will provide you with a much longer life than stock plastic bushings.

this system is made using the stock settings of the vehicle and you will have up to 2 degrees of toe and antisquat adjustment from stock settings. The 4 , 5 AND 6 dot inserts may also be used in the "C" block for fine adjusmtents to antusquat.



The system comes with:

1 front antidive block "C"( part no. m2c 6603)

1 rear toe block (part no. 6602)

1 front rear block (part no. 6601) NOTE: that this block uses the stock tekno insert

THIS SET OF INSERTS ON CENTERLINE OF THE INSERTS

3 tapered 4mm dia. hinge pins ( part no. 6605)

4 diamond inserts (hole in center of block) part no. m2c 4510

4 2 dot inserts (hole 1 degree off center) part no. m2c 4511

4 3 dot inserts ( hole 2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4512

4 4 dot inserts (hold 1/4 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4513

4 5 dot inserts ( hole 1/2 degrees off center) part no. m2c 4514

4 6 dot inserts (hole 3/4 degrees off center ) part no. m2c 4515

direction of point indicates direction of offset of hole.
the block can be purchased individually but "D" AND "C"BLOCKS
require the use of our bushings listed above which can also be
purchased separately.