Thanks for the info, I appreciate it! Since everyone locally runs a spool on the front, would just running the diff-locker in there solve at least the front diff issues you were experiencing?

Also, what exactly are these inner spacers for the dampers I've heard mentioned for cars without droop settings?

Can someone link to what these look like, or where to get them? I've seen in off road kits, the seat that holds the bottom of the spring come in different thicknesses, but am confused by "inner" spacers. Are people using shims to do this? I understand the effect on droop, just not what the part looks like, and what to buy/make. Thanks.

I learned about them running mini-coopers (as that was the only way to set droop; the mini-cooper thread contributors have the expertise on these).

The item NN18 in this photo shows the spacer. You can get them from some parts trees, or use extra rubber o-rings. You can also buy aluminum ones.

The kit shock parts tree comes with 6mm and 3mm spacers which are good for mini-cooper but probably too long for this s-spec tt02. I found some 1mm and 2.5mm ones on a spare f104 front end parts tree (F-parts #51381). You can probably also buy some metal ones or carefully cut down the kit ones. Cars like this are the ones where exact shock size is important from side-to-side. You can fine-tune the shock size (droop) by how far you screw the end ball connector on the shaft for sub-millimeter changes.

for inner spacers, buy 'Tamiya 53539 5.5mm Aluminum Spacer Set' These have all different lengths and are made of aluminium. These are great to use as they are exact.

As to running, I would run a spool outdoors or really thick (1 million / 500k) oil in the front diff for more steering. I ran this combo and managed to win outdoors on a low grip outdoor track with this combo.

There are some TT02 carbon shock towers coming soon, and the TT02s ones will be available, this will help even more options. (I can fit TRF arms without the S-Spec parts). I just want to track test it.

Thanks everyone for all the info! I will look through my parts trees. Lots of tamiya kits, so it shouldn't be a problem to find something, and order the specific parts in the meantime. Really dedicated to this chassis for some reason.

Qatmix: I bought pretty much everything listed on your site for it, so with the front universals and metal cups, I should be good to go with it locked. Got thick oils too, so maybe I'll use one of diffs from the 3 kits I have and try swapping both in for comparison.

I got some of those GPM universals you have on there, too, and was wondering if they are compatible with the 'tamiya cups for universal joint', or only the plastic ones on the kit? It sounds like you need them for the tamiya universals, but wondering if they are cross-compatible. Have a pair of the Tamiya shafts too. Which would you put on the front? Sounds like they are both high quality parts.

Thanks again for all your hard work on the site. It's been fun to follow. I even got an ARC, but that decision was only bolstered by you getting one. It seems like a great choice in the current market I had pretty much decided on it before seeing your review - then I was sold.

Ah, that's a good tip! I also have the F104, so thank you for making that easy, and for the pics. Good stuff.

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What springs and damper settings should I set up on the TRFs for these parking lot racing conditions? Would these setups differ between the mini-TRFs used for the rally configured suspension, and the TRF "short" ones recommended on thercracer.com?

I want to set up 2 TT-02s with both. One with the spacers on the top, and the mini dampers; and one with the spacers on the bottom, with the TRFs, since I spent all this money and want to use them for something. I figure minimum rebound on front and rear. Just not sure how many of the setups and tips online are for carpet or smooth asphalt vs. what we run.

Thanks again all! I believe I have a set of some touring car springs for Tamiyas. HPI silvers too. A set of mini ones that came with a m-chssis pro kit as well! Use the regular TC ones for the short style dampers? Sorry for all the questions, but hopefully this clears some things up for the super-rookies like me, which the TT is aimed at anyways.

I'll take some inventory of the parts to confirm I have everything straight before I start the two builds, which is planned for this weekend now that I finally got the high speed gear sets in (2 month ordeal, long story, must be a popular product.)

I won't be able to adjust front camber yet, but did get some parts for rear camber adjustments. If anyone wants to put together a sort of setup sheet for this, it would probably also help out the parking lot basher folks who want something that handles as good as possible for practice and fun at higher ride heights and damper settings than the usual smooth racing conditions. These might make great practice cars for more experienced racers too, being that they are tub chassis and covered gears while retaining all the cool bodies and value Tamiya offers at this level.

The latest few iterations of the base kit are a steal with the brushless esc and sport tuned motor. Got the Eneos here in the states shipped for $135 from Tower Hobbies, and arrived in a few days. That's why we are looking at this for a spec class, and I'm the test subject for figuring out the specs and what upgrades are allowed, gearing for our track with stock tamiya motors and high speed gear sets, etc.

I wanted to report back that my TT02 S-spec, set up for VTA, worked very well and was fun to drive.

Congrats! I'm glad it worked out for you. I will be reporting back on a hopped up TT-02D in VTA soon.

How'd it fare in wrecks (if any?)

When TT02 First came out I got one for my son to race and every time he hit the wall the hub carrier broke or the tires twisted so far the dogbone came out. So I turned that into a drift car.

Now the S-spec has totally different front, of course, however my one and only incident was just coming up to the wall and having a front dogbone lock up. It kept me out of the main but after the race I saw how easy it was to pop back in place.

Question now is should I put the 44mm front steel swing shafts from the TB04 (and others) on there. I'm pretty sure 44mm is the correct length.



My only concern is that when these hit the wall they get torn up, whereas the dogbone drive just needs to be put back in place.

Sounds like I will be fashioning a custom bumper before taking mine to the track (if I do at all, with them sounding so fragile.) It will smack a lot of boards, for sure.

This is the bumper I made for my son's TB04. I cut that from the 200mm rectangular PARMA bumper. He was able to hit hard enough to break a C-hub but only once. Last two race days no broken parts on either kids car thanks to those bumpers.

Personally I've best had success using the thin shaft types by YeahRacing. I think those may be quite a lot shorter, like 38mm but you need the smaller drive cups for these (rcmart.com)

From memory haven't broken any since (after sorting out my straight line driving with a servo saver) but I've stopped on road racing for a long time now (run on carpet and the "walls" may be of a wood compound or wood but with hard rubber outing).

I think the worst I've used are the JazRider ones which are even shorter, they're the thicker types.

Hi all,

I've been using two TT02's as rally / drifter cars, getting hammered by me and kids driving them, particularly when driving off road.
These have copped a lot of abuse but I'm yet to break anything around the front suspension or have a dogbone pop out / snap a Uni thanks I think to a 'square' brand TT01 suspension guard that I use on both.

You can find it on banzai hobby, might be worth trying.

Hopefully I haven't just jinxed myself!

Cheers,
Crouch

Very valuable post - thank you. I have a sheet of bumper-grade thermoplastic that I am not very skilled at working with, so I ordered two of the Square ones from Bonzai for a nice clean look and fitment.

These types of "guards" can make just about any car durable from what I've seen at our local track from people who make their own. I like their design too, and the width is perfect.

So, this fits without any trimming?

Not a problem mate.

I had to trim one of mine slightly to fit tamiya rally block tyres + increased steering angle.
With a stock steering angle setup + rally block tyres I didnt need to trim at all.

Still waiting to test it with the Type S setup though.

Cheers,
Crouch

Hey everyone,

I'm thinking of getting a TT-02 as my next all-pupose rally and club racer chassis and I'm torn between the R and S versions of the chassis.

What is more worthwhile, the better suspension setup of the TT-02S, or the aluminum drivetrain components of the TT-02R?

I plan on upgrading the car, and seeing as I don't have a local TCS series, I don't mind getting aftermarket parts from other manufacturers, as long as the quality is decent.