Does this suffice?

Well that's real curious. TKR6003 are the vented ones and TKR6003B aren't.

SOURCE

I'm not trying to argue. Someone is wrong somewhere though. I have some that came in my last order. I'll have to check the packaging.

Agreed. I just wanted confirmation on what actually came in my kit. Without a doubt I have non vented caps.
Just to clarify for those who may not know... do not confuse the bleeding hole with the vent hole in the upper side of the cap.

As for the email I received, he probably inverted the part numbers. An honest mistake.

Now that I built sets with both types of caps, I can say that vented ones seems really smooth compared to non-vented.
I will test them both tomorrow.

What have you found to be the benefits of the vented over the non vented? Just a smoother rebound action or smoother overall? Better for bigger jumps?

As an overly simplified not always true rule...
Vented tends to handle bumps better and non vented tends to handle huge flat landings better. The non-vented basically adds an extra layer of pack as the shock compresses, since the bladder being pushed up has to compress the air trapped in the shock cap.

K gotcha.... ;-)

Well, spent some time at the track today. JustPoet's comment are confirmed!
Both felt great with our 8x1.3 pistons, so I am keeping my non-vented caps.

Confirmed in a couple recent EB48.2 kits that they all had non vented caps. Now I need to go try them out back to back in a direct comparison, but that will take a while with my schedule.

i need help on repairing plastic thread on a spindle. What do you use to repair it ? Got told about some product that you mix with ca glue to re-fill the hole. They couldn't remember the name of it but any help would be great.

in a pinch I have gone with something as simple as paper threaded in to give it bite.

for a more permanent solution I know guys that use shoe goo or jb weld and then thread into that.

+1

Thanks Cain, will give that a go for sure.

no prob, I remember how much it was a pain in my old Academy SBV2 vehicle as the plastic was so soft the screw would always back itself out.

The best bet will always be to just replace the part. However, some graphite dust in ca then letting it cure works for a short period of time.

Almost any form of dust in the ca will work, much like the carbon fill in the or iguana plastic, it gives the screw something more to bite on. The spindles are inexpensive though, so just replace it and then use a plastic/metal thread lock when you install the new one if this is a continual problem for you. I've found they only tend to do this and back out when something else is worn enough that the screw heads can touch the spindle carriers. They shouldn't be able to do that, as the top hat bushings will normally stick out further than the spindle carriers, but if the spindle carriers are worn a lot on the inside they can develop more up and down play with the spindles, allowing the screws to touch and essentially be unscrewed with every turn of the wheel.