I noticed a huge difference, these run much cooler and do not fade, well worth getting some. Especially for me as I'm very hard on my brakes, and was going threw pads to often.

Dam drew 3 nt48 when the 4th one comming

Has anyone tried these yet?

http://www.amain.com/psm-vx3-tekno-v...-set-2/p390237

I was going to order these in my last Amain order, but at the time they were on back order.
I'm curious to see if anyone else has tried them as well. I've been using these http://www.amain.com/losi-brake-disc...8#tab-feedback lately.

I've ordered them just waiting for them to arrive, but anything that doesn't get hot has to be good.

How did the losi ones work Eric?

I have only got 3 because you offered to buy one so I ordered one to replace the one i thought was sold to you which turned out to be a waist of my time.

I like the Losi discs I used them when I had my 811T as well. They don't fade in the Long mains.
I've got the Tekno Fibreglass discs I'm going to try, now I'm back to the Tekno centre diff.

Yep many others have fallen for his traps as well keeps changing user names and saying he is buying and selling for a mate

He is a bad shit talker and a waist of time

I ant the guy you say I am. And my friend has quit and I do have other ppl ask me. For stuff. Well drew I am sorry. If you can see I don't have same name. Or last name. Drew msg me and we sorted out this trouble out ok as I am willing to fix anything I may have course. You just pm and we talk things out

TKR6140 Supplemental Instructions:

Hello, we wanted to let our customers know that the newly released spring perches and shock boots require a different procedure when assembling/building them due to the new shock boot design.

For the SCT410, EB48.2, NB48, ET48, NT48:
1. Unthread your current shock rod ends. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft. Remove any o-rings used to limit up travel if any are installed.

2. Install new shock boot onto shaft and secure around shock cartridge cap as shown:

3. Install new rod end as shown in the second image. Be sure to use shock shaft pliers so you don't scratch or nick the surface of the shock shaft.

With the rod end fully tightened down the shock boot should look like this:

Rebuild the shock like you normally would, just remember that the shock boot will have to be pulled down over the rod end to set rebound and is not able to slide over and off the rod end like the old shock boots.

Once you refill with oil and bleed the shock to the desired rebound you can install the shock boot back into the proper position and install the spring, spring perch and use a 1.5mm hex wrench to install the set screw. The set screw is the length of the spring perched and should be flush with the perch when installed as shown

That's it, enjoy your new shock boots and spring perches!
-Thomas

Good stuff, Tekno....

Thanks for sharing your experience with them, Drews. I personally wish that Tekno would release something similar; something like the ST-RR Evo brake disks or your XRAY ones - laser cut.

I raced this last weekend with the new brake cams; WOW - a very noticeable difference in braking power. They come on quickly. I may have to go back and slow my servo down and also adjust the front/rear bias (flipped forward end over end the first time I hit the brakes good)

I just bought the new brake cams as well, not so much for better braking but the fact they come on earlier means less stress on the servo which has to be a good thing. I wonder if we round the ends on the stock cams if they would be the same cause it looks like the only difference is the new ones are rounded while the stock ones are square, I wonder if that is the only difference what did you find.