Calvin, I actually did find and have your setup that you posted a few pages back in memo pad for future use. I had seen Grandpa mention it to another person on here and took note and added it to the setup base on my comp. Our rules here are TCS rules save for you can run any tire you wish. I choose to keep mine as close to a TCS legal setup as then I can have base when the time comes I finally make it to TCS. My mini with the large pack it currently runs weighs in at 1351g or so. Porky yes but my cars usually are on the heavier side. My electronics are in the chassis just as yours are except for the battery as mine is a full size lipo.

Angry, The setup I posted was used on a M05 with glued sidewalls and it did work great. Was my baseline setup for my old M05 so its why I figured would be a good spot to start with the V2, sans glued sidewalls.

So it seems not many are using the lower pivot suspension link for the front? If not that all good as I can easily switch to the stock location.

I will also be trying some tips grandpa gave me for finding the groove for the car. Calvin I will also have your setup on my phone for reference and testing. I know I am missing something somewhere that will help. Oh and I do have a set of M grips on hand if all else fails. I Also plan on picking up some A's this weekend to have on hand as well.

Thanks for the tips and help guys.

Jason

I have added a few pics to show how the mini currently looks and is setup for reference.

Wouldn't the trick to running unglued sidewalls be finding a way to stop the edge of the tire from rolling under and/or creating excessive traction? Seems to me the easiest way would be getting more steering from less input or huge camber. But that's from my limited point of view.

Monkey, One of my first setups on my first M05 had serious camber. This was before I went to the gluing of sidewalls or rather before I had ever heard of people doing it. My biggest complaint from that setup was how fast I went through tires. I would average 1 set of fronts per like 3 race days if that. A set of rears would last a whole series before being replaced. The car did have decent steering too. D/R was at 100% if I remember correctly. But the sad part is that was also before I started using setup sheets . My newbie days before I knew what the setup sheets were.

Jason

Can the droop screw attachment be used in the rear arms in a short wheel base configuration ? In regards to the V2.

According to my V2 instruction book yes.

Jason

My instructions indicated the same until i tryed it. I must be missing something.

The piece the screws go in attaches just like it does on my mid wheel base. Just the location they hit the chassis is different. Is there to contact point on the chassis? Or the piece not go on?

Jason

The piece attaches to the rear arm fine. The grub screw contacts the last screw of the chasis. The arm ends up at about 30 deg. angle facing up. It just doesn't look right. Also not allowing any shock travel.

So I'm about to change my diff for the first time.
Is there an optimal way of opening my M05 v2 up to get to the diff ?

Remove front bumper. Disconnect any steering linkage that joins l/r halves. Remove top and bottom screws holding right half of chassis to rear section. Remove motor and the four screws holding the front halves together. Pull right front section away.

Oh yeah, if you're using the "roll bars", undue the right one at the back, near the rear suspension.

I actually take the left hand side of the chassis off as it is easier to get the gears in. So you remove the screws holding the left hand side of the chassis to the bulkhead. Removing bumper etc as detailed already. Don't need to touch the ARB myself but that may be wheelbase related.

Yay, changing diff wasn't too hard and I even got everything back together again nicely.
And then I spotted a spacer on the table
So I disassembled it again and this time did it right.

A thing that really annoys me is when hopup parts don't come with everything needed to install it.
The yeah racing steering assembly manual states "insert spacers here (*not included)".
The 3racing gear diff needs M10x15x4 bearings (*not included).
If there's anything that kills the joy of working on your car it's not being able to make it work because of missing parts.

You say tomato and I say tomato...that really doesn't work unless you sing it.

mY 05v2 shoiuld be here soon, will be putting the Tamiya bl can in as every one else is the same... how does it compare to a 21.5.. any special setups with this motor... We ru indoor med to low grip carpet for now

As some here still bother with taping the battery in the V2,
I thought I post some pics of our solution,
as nearly everyone in my class copied the idea of Michael, a race buddy of mine,
using M03 parts.
We use by spec 4000 Zippy Lipos, and are not allowed to charge outside a Lipo bag. So taping the battery was a fuzz, because many race the Mini besides the touring car, and everything has to go quick...
To stop wobbling, I covered the square hole with foamrear and downside, so the Zippy fits smooth in the chassis. M03 holders are cut by 1mm on the inside, depending on the battery used.
No damages to the connectors so far (4 race weekends).
Here some pics of my R5 turbo, which won me our first Mini championship this year on the last weekend...

Br,
Matthias