I wouldnt have such an issue paying a couple hundred bucks for a motor if its gonna be consistant with decent smooth power and i dont need to replace the rod after break-in and 2 gallons later i have to replace the rear bearing......is it really too much to ask for like 5-6 gallons without having to open the motor up? Is that what im paying 5-700 for? No, because new rossi motors have some special bearing that 150$ you have to replace after break-in.....wtf is that shit? For that kind of money it should last 15 gallons and drive the buggy for me!!

I don't think your going to find what your looking for - not with that line of thought.
Look at your 1:1 four cylinder car. They need a new cam belt and water pump seal etc at around 100,000 km - now compare that to the size of your nitro engine and the rpm it pulls. Everything is smaller (bearings etc), and it's regularly pulling 38,000 to 40,000 rpm in the dust and dirt......
Of course bearings will wear and start to fail. Rods will wear at those crazy revs, especially if they have been hammered during run-in (through no fault of your own) owing to the design of these motors.
When something this small makes close on 3 hp, things will wear out.
Compare a top fuel car - massive hp on nitro fuel - complete engine rebuild after each run.......
That's high performance motor sport, be it full scale or model.

When u can afford, for sure the well known motor is the best but i cant justify the needs of it honestly. It all depends on how you look at it.

Can someone tell me:
1. Silicone filled + tungsten crankshaft or
2. Ceramic rear bearing
That made the motor response so well to throttle input? I tested lrp. Zz21 ceramic last week and got shocked

What do you want to know about them.?
They are all performance options, probably not make a big difference by themselves but together they would make an engine produce more power & have more reliability.

Silicone filling a crank does not make more power. It is drilling out the crank and making it lighter and then filled back in with lighter silicone. Tungsten on the counterweight does add some weight but helps smooth out the engines vibrations at high rpm.
Ceramic rear bearing is better and lighter.

All these things help the Lrp/Speed but the biggest factor is the Lrp has way more crank timing. A much bigger reason than all the stuff listed above.

Rex

I didn't actually say filling the crank made more power on its own, but from what I have read & understand, it helps direct fuel through the crank in some way that would help towards a performance increase when used with other modifications, like lightening the crank. Maybe it makes tuning easier, I don't know, just going off things I have read & heard.
If it done nothing then it wouldn't be used would it.?

meaning to say, by using optional crankshaft and ceramic bearing wont make day n night difference but only the timing that count? thanks

A lighter crankshaft will help the engine pick up revs faster as the rotating mass is lower.
Crank in mine is something like 11 grams lighter I think, has the silicon insert aswell, it has a lot of low down power.

Wat is d measurement of conrod pin (@crankshaft) on crankshaft? I believe mine show some play but not sure is crankshaft or conrod

New is 5mm

If it's worn it will be oval. Check measurements north / south, then east / west and compare.
Anything around 4.975 or less is past its usefulness really.
At this point a new rod will wear very quickly.
Time for a new crank.

No, they measure 4.95 when new. I just measured one right now.

Doesn't have to be the case.

Not at all, I'm very surprised you would say this. First of all they only measure 4.95 new.
After 8 gallons or so crank pin will probably be down to about 4.91-4.90, and rod will probably be at about 5.08-5.10.

At this point you send the piston/sleeve off to RayAracing for a repinch, fit a new rod, and run the engine another 8 gallons. By this stage the crank pin will be down to 4.82-4.84.
Once the crank pin gets down to 4.82 is when you risk rod failure and the rod will come out through the crank case.

If the crank pin still measures 4.90 it has plenty of life left and is still worth a new rod.

What you're saying is just not right at all.

No.

Wow, sorry. Your obviously the expert on all things nitro on here by the looks of it. Any brand, any model.
You go run your 4.8 whatever crank pin and enjoy it while it lasts.

If he is measuring with a set of verniers, it's safe to say he will probably see 5.0mm on a new crank.

I have a well used GXII Plus crank in the workshop that measures up on the micrometer at 4.977, so I don't know how you come up with 4.95 new ?

Jordan, if you have any questions on GO or any other brand in future, just PM Eivind E - seems he is the man.

Why are you telling people that after 0.025mm of wear on a crankshaft they need a new one?

In real world conditions a crank is still fine and useable when measuring 4.91'ish at the very least, and you don't really risk catastrophic failure for a looooong time, which I am assuming is what most people are concerned about. In my experience catastrophic rod failure occurs when crank pin measures less than 4.82-4.84'ish.

Judging by your advice, everyone should discard their crankshafts directly after completing break-in of their new Go engine, I'm not sure most people are going to think that's needed.

ive owned a MM Go 21 and i have not had any issue in running the engine past its break in.. or there after... being that it is custom by massivemods now known as Nitro Addicts Australia.. it is still a go and did great for me.. purrred like a cat.. good to see Go engines are around still with all this competition going on..